Hello to everyone . Got nice Christmas present this year . Brand new glider coronado with dd60 in it . Truck runs fine. The only concern is oil pressure. I'm getting 40-42 psi running down the road .2000 (TWO) miles on the clock . Oil pressure seems a bit low for this engine.
See pics at different rpms.
Any input appreciated.
Ps rebuild was done by freightliner (I'm aware of
Fitzgerald engines ). Engine model 6067bk60.
Detroit series 60 oil pressure question .
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by flatbed85, Jan 15, 2021.
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That’s normal, only time mine gets any higher, is when first fired up. Fresh oil, 50 lbs. till warm. Old oil, especially if a gallon or two low, cold start will be 47-48lbs. At high idle, till warm. I usually bump it up to 1000 at idle, then bump it down, a second at a time till the guage barely moves. Keeping about 36 or 37lbs. at about 800-850 RPMs. Looks like you’re at 43, 37.5, and 21 at idle. Idle pressure might be a little low. I’d have to check mine, Same engine fresh inframe. You probably noticed increments on guage is 12.5 lbs. not 10. Detroit’s oil pressure is lower than Cats, about 10lbs. If I recall correctly.
Last edited: Jan 15, 2021
flatbed85 Thanks this. -
my dd3 runs 50 on the road per gauge and prolink
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Maybe. They will even slobber oil sometimes through the Turbo and out exhaust stack at first. I didn’t notice any difference, I’ve got 25k on it now. Rings often don’t seal up good till about 70k. Fuel mileage should jump up as much as 1 mpg. It happens all at once sometimes. You’ll know when their seated in good by the MPGs. Run the overhead, sometime after 70k.
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Hiw do you break it in? I asked around ... some people say drive it like you stole it, others not to push it too hard .Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Drive it hard, making it work (Lug) a bit. Between 1350-1500. I’ve been doing that, and then occasionally running it up to 1700. I’ve ran it all the way up to 2100 quite a few times. If it’s ever coming apart, let it happen now. Lol. The harder the better, without tearing up the driveline. Lol. I just set the cruise, mostly, but been gassing on up hills, making it work hard. For now anyways. Opposite of my normal habits. It’s true, has something to do with side force of rings on cylinders. Lower RPMs are better at that. You want them seated up good, wearing into the sleeves, to get a good match in diameter. Opposite of just idling, or babying it. That will encourage glazing of cylinders, and increase blow by. Ideally more heat the better, within reason ofcourse. Don’t want to overheat it, or run over 1000 pyro egt. But definately run it hard. Temporary economy loss will payoff in increases in long run and less blow by, if broken in right. Should change oil soon, before 4K, to get all the metal shavings out, if any. I’ve read as soon as 2k, I waited till 6k. Too long. I changed it again at 16k. No more shavings. All 6 counterbores were cut, block cleaned good. Saw it with my own eyes. Even ran a magnet down each bore, and around the bottom. Still, here’s what I found on first oil change. YIKES!!! It’s normal.
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I got a 12.7. rideandrepair has exactly the same numbers as me.
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little cat 500, QUALITYTRUCK and Rideandrepair Thank this.
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