CONVERT FROM ELECTRIC TO HYDRAULIC DRUM BRAKES ON 7K AXLES?

Wrapping up this tread, there was no problem with my brakes they are just not real effective at full load. Electric brake IS THE CHEAPEST AND THE MOST UNRELIABLE, INEFFECTIVE. Some would argue hydraulic brakes would blow a wheel cylinder and lose ALL brakes, it is definitely true but so do electric brakes if a brake wire is shorted out and this happens FAR MORE OFTEN than a wheel cylinder blows.

Here's a tip for hydraulic brake, if a wheel cylinder blows unscrew the brake line compression fitting at the back of the cylinder pull the brake line out of the threaded hole just a little and get a small piece of trash bag roll it into a small ball put it in the hole, reconnect the brake line. This would block brake fluid going to that cylinder, refill brake fluid, brake bleeding might be needed to get air out of the hydraulic system then the rest of the brakes would be working again so the trailer be pulled SAFELY home or to a repair shop.

After doing some research on cost, part availability and thanks to CaseRobert mentioning Kodiak Trailer I have decided to convert to hydraulic disc brakes. Look like it would cost around $2000 for parts which is not bad at all, the links to the disc brake kits are below I will add a post to this thread once I have done the conversion to review the disc brake performance.

Dacromet disc brake kit
Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Dacromet - 7,000-lb Axle Kodiak Trailer Br

Raw finish rotor disc brake kit
Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Raw Finish - 7,000-lb Dexter Axle Kodiak T