Clutch pedal stays about 2" down from the top

I hope I was clear, if one is a Rt. hand, and one is a Left hand Thread,
you break the locknuts and spin the rod to lengthen or shorten.
Same principle as a turnbuckle or load binder.

 

The squeek is your dry, frozen or stuck component. I vaguely remember having one of these Sterlings with a frozen pedal mount somewhere inside the cab at the pedal pivot. Plastic bushing or something? I'M going waaaaay....... back in the archive bank here so I may be off.

See if you can have the dealer send you a breakdown of the linkage and pedal inside. Can you disconnect it at the firewall and see how it feels? You are still battling a worn, dry stuck component.

 

the pedal is supposed to have 2 inches of free play and your not supposed to rest your foot on the pedal. there should be very little resistance for the first 2 inches of pedal travel.

 

You need to have someone work the free play while you look at all of the linkage.

I don't know about Sterlings, but check where the pedal itself pivots and each part of that linkage because you have a bushing or link that's bad or something that's frozen or stuck.

And tell your driver to get his foot off of that clutch. The rule is when the clutch is out your foot is off. After the clutch engages you completely remove your foot and put it on the floor.

If he won't do it then take your foot and put it somewhere. Just kidding, but he should use the clutch properly.

 

No it’s doesn’t work like a car . I’m not sure you have clutch adjusted properly as I just went through this nightmare myself with the linkage.Before adjusting clutch you need to check the distance between throwout bearing and clutch brake with foot off of Clutch Pedal. This distance should be 1/2 “. If it’s more than that Have a helper push Pedal all the way to floor then adjust Clutch a bit by turning adjustment bolt clockwise.(If the distance is less than 1/2” turn counter clockwise) release and measure again repeat if needed until you have the proper 1/2” distance. Now check distance between the fork and the throwout bearing where they make contact (with foot off pedal). It should be 1/8”. If not adjust linkage so that you have 1/8 “ gap between the forks and throwout bearing Doing this adjustment should give you between 1-2” of freeplay on pedal. (If the fork/throwout gaps too wide you’ll have too much free play and will not have enough throwout bearing travel to fully disengage Clutch when Pedal is pushed down. If it’s too narrow of a gap you won’t have enough free play and Clutch brake will engage too high off of floor When it’s Just right (1/8”) The free play and the Throwout bearing travel should be perfect) Now Have helper push in clutch to about 1 “ from floor and check that clutch brake is squeezed tight ( Its suggested to put a business card between clutch brake and Throwout bearing and it should hold in place with pedal about 1” off floor. If you decide to do that don’t get your fingers smashed!!).Youre Done .The clutch wears a little bit every time you use it eventually it wears enough that it loses its free play.The time to adjust it is while you still have some free play left. If not and your driving with no free play it will slip and burn up. If your driving and resting foot on pedal it’s the same thing no free play clutch will Burn up.You shouldn’t have to ever adjust linkage again unless it breaks or your replacing the ends or installing new clutch maybe. Mine got out of wack when I replaced the end on linkage at trans and did what I thought was a proper clutch adjustment about a year ago. Also had a bad cab bushing that caused shift rod on trans to break twice. figured it out after hitting a huge pothole and linkage top piece skipped past the threads giving me free play to the floor. I was due for an adjustment at the time but still had a little bit of free play left. After that I made sure to keep plenty of freeplay using linkage as I thought I had no adjustment left on clutch. Eventually it started slipping a little even though I had plenty of free play at pedal ( due to linkage adjustment only.) Learned off Utube and adjusted mine as good as it will get. Just ran 1100 miles no slipping.I will be doing clutch ASAP. In future when you can no longer adjust it enough to get the 1/2” distance it’s time for a new clutch. ( The actual spec is 1/2” Up to 5/8”. 1/2” being best.) 5/8 “ I think might require use of oversized clutch brake to obtain proper squeeze) I know that’s a lot but hope it helps you understand it better. I had a hard time with it myself

 

Here’s some pics outta get a good laugh out of someone. Was under a load on a Saturday night. Decided better put new part on and snapped old one off in the rod had to improvise. It worked ran a week like that had welded better than new $25 vs $200 It ain’t pretty but it’s strong

 

that's some real "Mc Giver"-ing you got there; Gotta give you credit,
but if your on the road, and only other option is call for an $800 Tow, Its Beautiful.

ALWAYS have wire-ties, duct tape, and a small roll of steel wire in your truck toolbox.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I blew a hole in the big air hose right off the air pump, it was stainless braid covered hose,
took 4 rubber gloves and 40 wire ties and got it home.
Threw it out - I shoulda took pictures.
It was ugly, but beautiful - like this.

 

yeah its really a lot simpler than it sounds. really the pedal freeplay doesn't mean much its the brake to throw out bearing measurment that is important. and if thats right and you have proper clutch brake squeeze your good to go. once the bearing to break is set then you adjust the linkage and then you shouldn't ever need to touch the linkage again unless someone monkeys with it. you should end up with 2 inches or a little more of pedal free play once everything is set properly.

ill be needing to do a clutch adjustment on my truck soon hoping to cover it in a video as a few people have asked me to make one on clutch adjustments.