Hey everyone. I beat my ### trying to figure how the hell clutch pedal shaft and 2 bearings suppose to be replaced on kw900??? The shaft I'm talking about located behind the speedo and tacho,and its covered by millions of wires. I got the dash apart,removed steering column and still have no idea how to replace it... any ideas would be helpfu
Ps the problem is when I press the clutch pedal in it won't come up and stays by the floor. I was at kw dealersgip- they replaced 2 linkages under the cab saying problem was there,but it didn't help. It was ok for about 30 miles after I left them and then same thing again... new clutch and clutch kit( fork,bearing etc)- 40k ago,new linkages under the cab. So only thing left is that shaft under the dash and 2 bearings...
Clutch pedal mechanism
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Mezamorta, Oct 28, 2018.
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I would call up a heavy duty truck transmission shop and ask them.
Techs at Stealerships are just part changers, you need talk to someone that specializes in transmissions and clutches.
Is it a hydraulic or mechanical clutch?Bakerman Thanks this. -
On my 96 there are 2 greaseable pivots. One where the linkage comes out of the cab and one at the back of the transmission mounted on the frame. Many people forget to grease them.
Nothereoften and SAR Thank this. -
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stillwurkin, pushbroom, Slowpoke KW and 1 other person Thank this.
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Slowpoke KW Thanks this.
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When I showed the shop foreman the buckled sheetmetal damage, he went and had the Tech that worked on it come over to look at it and he denied ever jacking the cab up to change out the airbag.
The Tech said he didn't need to jack the cab up to unscrew the airbag. I guess with his superhuman strength, he just unscrewed it by hand with the weight of the cab supporting it.
The irony of the whole thing was I took pictures of the back of the cab before I had the work done to prove their was no damage beforehand, also there was a greasy outline of the bottle jack that they used on the frame rail.
How about the time a few years ago when Volvo had a recall on the TRW drag link for VNL 2001-2003, I brought it to TEC of Fontana and it was taking a abnormally long time to install the part because the Tech stated the zerk fitting was rubbing on the spring frame support when the steering wheel was turned.
When I picked it up I noticed the Tech installed the drag link in the wrong direction, basically backwards.
When I showed the shop foreman he was surprised it was installed backwards because he stated the Tech that changed numerous ones in the past.
That's why most Techs are part changers, and that's why I invested in my own tools so I can do most of the work myself and know that it's done right.Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
Bakerman Thanks this. -
So any other ideas besides calling shops around?) May be someone was restoring one of them old kw's or petes?
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Mezamorta Thanks this.
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Hey- just thinking out loud here... before you knock yourself out changing that assembly under the dash- unhook the clutch linkage from the pedal and see if the pedal moves freely on its own. There should be a pivot bolt in the engine compartment just in front of the clutch pedal. It would have to bind really hard to hold the clutch down. I’m thinking more that the clutch fork is tipping too far and sticking. A damaged fork would cause this. I would probably unhook the linkage first, see if the pedal moves smoothly- if it does get someone to step on the clutch while you lay under the truck and watch the fork and throw out bearing. Maybe your answer down there.
Mezamorta Thanks this.
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