Clutch pedal mechanism

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Mezamorta, Oct 28, 2018.

  1. Mezamorta

    Mezamorta Bobtail Member

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    Hey everyone. I beat my ### trying to figure how the hell clutch pedal shaft and 2 bearings suppose to be replaced on kw900??? The shaft I'm talking about located behind the speedo and tacho,and its covered by millions of wires. I got the dash apart,removed steering column and still have no idea how to replace it... any ideas would be helpfu

    Ps the problem is when I press the clutch pedal in it won't come up and stays by the floor. I was at kw dealersgip- they replaced 2 linkages under the cab saying problem was there,but it didn't help. It was ok for about 30 miles after I left them and then same thing again... new clutch and clutch kit( fork,bearing etc)- 40k ago,new linkages under the cab. So only thing left is that shaft under the dash and 2 bearings...
     
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  3. boneebone

    boneebone Road Train Member

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    I would call up a heavy duty truck transmission shop and ask them.

    Techs at Stealerships are just part changers, you need talk to someone that specializes in transmissions and clutches.

    Is it a hydraulic or mechanical clutch?
     
    Bakerman Thanks this.
  4. Slowpoke KW

    Slowpoke KW Road Train Member

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    On my 96 there are 2 greaseable pivots. One where the linkage comes out of the cab and one at the back of the transmission mounted on the frame. Many people forget to grease them.
     
    Nothereoften and SAR Thank this.
  5. Mezamorta

    Mezamorta Bobtail Member

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    Its 98 kw9 and its mechanical. I'll try to do that. Thanks
     
  6. Goodysnap

    Goodysnap Road Train Member

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    Wow.......this is a bold statement and clearly far from the truth. Some of the most knowledgable and smartest quys in the biz work for dealers. Clearly you have had bad experiences with certain dealers which is too bad. Not really fair of you to generalize in that way though.
     
  7. Mezamorta

    Mezamorta Bobtail Member

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    Yeh I knew about those two but they were greased since first month I owned the truck.(I bought 1 year ago). I greased them when I first start experuance this problem(about 10 month ago). It didn't help,then changed the clutch and fork- no change. Then I started to check linkages - disconnected 1 linkage under the cab that way I could see if its pedal assembly or clutch linkage and fork... clutch linkage was moving freely but the clutch pedal was still siezing so I opened the dash get fingers on the bearings and start moving pedal back and I could feel and hear heavy friction and squeezing in those bearing. Another thing I found- a lot of dust,like pounds of it)) all around wires so I believe that dust could get into beatings and make them seize and wear... previous owner was pulling grain hauler and that's why there is plenty of dust.
     
    Slowpoke KW Thanks this.
  8. boneebone

    boneebone Road Train Member

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    Yep, I sure have had bad experiences, like the Volvo Tech in Fontana that changed my cab airbags and jacked the cab up from the back cab wall thinking the cab wall sheetmetal edge would support a 2000k+ cab. He should've instead used the cross member of the cab floor with a piece of wood to jack up the cab.

    When I showed the shop foreman the buckled sheetmetal damage, he went and had the Tech that worked on it come over to look at it and he denied ever jacking the cab up to change out the airbag.

    The Tech said he didn't need to jack the cab up to unscrew the airbag. I guess with his superhuman strength, he just unscrewed it by hand with the weight of the cab supporting it.

    The irony of the whole thing was I took pictures of the back of the cab before I had the work done to prove their was no damage beforehand, also there was a greasy outline of the bottle jack that they used on the frame rail.

    How about the time a few years ago when Volvo had a recall on the TRW drag link for VNL 2001-2003, I brought it to TEC of Fontana and it was taking a abnormally long time to install the part because the Tech stated the zerk fitting was rubbing on the spring frame support when the steering wheel was turned.

    When I picked it up I noticed the Tech installed the drag link in the wrong direction, basically backwards.

    When I showed the shop foreman he was surprised it was installed backwards because he stated the Tech that changed numerous ones in the past.

    That's why most Techs are part changers, and that's why I invested in my own tools so I can do most of the work myself and know that it's done right.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
    Bakerman Thanks this.
  9. Mezamorta

    Mezamorta Bobtail Member

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    So any other ideas besides calling shops around?) May be someone was restoring one of them old kw's or petes?
     
  10. Slowpoke KW

    Slowpoke KW Road Train Member

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    Today I asked another driver I know about this problem of yours since I knew he had done one before. Unfortunately he couldn’t remember exactly how he done it 15 years ago but did remember it was a royal pain in the ### and didn’t want anything to do with that job again.
     
    Mezamorta Thanks this.
  11. Big Orange

    Big Orange Bobtail Member

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    Hey- just thinking out loud here... before you knock yourself out changing that assembly under the dash- unhook the clutch linkage from the pedal and see if the pedal moves freely on its own. There should be a pivot bolt in the engine compartment just in front of the clutch pedal. It would have to bind really hard to hold the clutch down. I’m thinking more that the clutch fork is tipping too far and sticking. A damaged fork would cause this. I would probably unhook the linkage first, see if the pedal moves smoothly- if it does get someone to step on the clutch while you lay under the truck and watch the fork and throw out bearing. Maybe your answer down there.
     
    Mezamorta Thanks this.
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