clutch brake troubles

Not to cause an argument, but to help you better understand why it is important to use the internal clutch adjustment for the brake (1/2" air gap) and the linkage for free travel. The clutch has a limited amount of travel within itself and using the internal adjuster to increase free travel moves the friction discs and centerplate too far off center to operate optimally. The small adjustments made to maintain the 1/2" air gap for the brake won't cause this off center condition which only puts additional strain on the clutch and can even break it. When your clutch engages very high on the pedal, it's an indication of the incorrect adjustment method was followed.

 

If you're talking about free travel on the pedal 1/2" is the very minimum, should be 2".

 

When I adjust them, the pedal does not release at the top. It releases like its supposed to. The brake starts to squeeze about an inch off the floor, and there's 2-3 inches free travel at the top. It's kind of a tomatoe-tomahtoe kind if situation. My way is not wrong, just different.
If you look at the instruction sheet that comes with an Eaton Easy pedal clutch, it plainly states....set the brake squeeze with the linkage, then adjust the pressure plate to achieve the proper free play.

#### I can't believe I let myself get in this pizzing match again.....

 

I attended Eaton training class on their clutches. I stated what they taught in the class and the reasoning behind it. It's been proven by this industry that your preferred method is very common and it might be good enough in most cases, but when you keep turning that ring in for more free travel you are shortening the life of the clutch and if the clutch doesn't fail first, you run out of adjustment in the clutch and need a new one because of it. If you don't use the internal adjustment to gain free travel, you'll never run out of adjustment.

I once worked for a shop that taught your preferred method and I told them it was incorrect. The owner told me to keep my mouth shut about it and don't be telling others in the shop. Why? Their method caused premature clutch failures and often the clutches ran out of adjustment, so they got a clutch job out of it. A steady diet of clutch jobs was a big part of their bread and butter.

 

Never been to school, so I have no clue. My 20+ years is hands on training. Clutches in my trucks last almost 800K before failing. 99% of those the release bearing pulls out. Never have to change out the brake before clutch change. Just adjust the plate all is good.
Ive been lucky I guess.....Ive put almost 300K miles on the truck i drive, and it just now needs adjusting. If I use your method, and adjust the linkage to give me free play, I will lose my braking ability. So, I'll keep adjusting the way I always have.

Ask the Eaton teacher why the adjusting bolt plainly states...Adjust for free travel......maybe I need to go back to school.

 

Ive seen the adjuster bolt say that too, but they also often say "make no internal adjustment" on a new clutch. I can't answer that question, just know what I was taught and it makes sense. One thing that many don't realize is that when you turn the adjuster in, it increases both free travel and clutch brake by moving the release bearing back, then once you establish your desired clutch brake setting, you adjust your free travel with the linkage. The linkage adjustment could affect your clutch brake squeeze, but if you set your air gap at 1/2" you'll still have plenty of brake.

 

If your linkage is set wrong your clutch can still work right but will eat up brakes. just adjust the linkage to 1/2 to 9/16 gap than readjust your cluth to get your toe play back to 2 inches. than leave the linkage alone. adjusting the linkage just causes for more issues down the road. people put in a new clutch and brake and forget to redo the linkage and wipe out a new brake. i switched over to a change brake use a small allen bolt to bolt it together. if (and has it has only happend once and that was when a driver took the truck to a shop to get it serviced and they adjust the clutch and a month later the brake was shot) it does wear you can easly change it. with setting the linkage once and leaving it the hell alone i find the clutch brake last the life of the clutch

 

Think this maybe my issue, should the 2 piece clutch brake spin on shaft if I flick it with my finger? Should it float along the length of the shaft? Or is the clutch brake ment to be fixed somehow to the gearbox , I'm not sure as I have never replaced one, I've only every adjusted the clutch and freeplay

oh I just found a pic of a clutch brake, I see it has locating lugs so obviously it should not spin on the shaft, doh!