Chicken lights?

Oh hell dropped a 440 magnum in it punch it out 60 over and put a bigger crank it in and you'd be a certified ######. If you're gonna post on a truckers forum gotta remember. BIGGER IS BETTER...IF ITS WORTH DOING ITS WORTH OVERDOING!!!

If you're still thinking about a momentary button Tractor supply sells the switch for about $4 pull the headlight switch find the park lights wire and wire it in there. Takes about an hour or so.

I need to rip the dash in my truck apart and rewire mine. Its on the black wire (ICC lights). Needs to be on the ICC and marker circuit to kill all the trailer lights.

 

Nice, that was cool to have that kind of lights. Thanks for this information.

 

Sorry I forgot about this thread.

Find the harness that plugs into the headlight switch. Inside it you'll find a black wire with a yellow stripe. That should be your taillights. Turn your parking lights on and probe the wire with a tester first to make sure before cutting it.

You'll probably have to extend the wires to your switch depending on where you put it.

Remember the switch has to be a "normally closed monetarily open switch". If you want a nice long toggle switch easy to find in the dark then I would go to a truck dealer and pick one up. It's probably $20-$30 there. One of them push button switches I PMed you will work just as good.

 

No offense to shadowcat but hurt a PT's value?

You drive them cars and then throw them away. The switch will last longer and have a higher resale value!

 

Isn't there a special place for them... Like next to all the old Yugos?

 

The Frieghtliner I'm in has no courtesy light switch. I just hit the flashers for a couple a flashes to say thanks.

 

I either hit the marker flash if I'm pulling any of our trailers other than a Utility and the hazard flasher if I'm pulling a Utility since some knuckle head at Utility decide to start wiring the top clearance lights on the rear of the trailer to the taillights circuit rather than the marker light circuit around 1999 and all the marker lamp interrupt switch does is flash the two lamps on the front of the trailer. The Wabash trailers are the best as the two outer taillights and 3 center clearance lamps are wired to the marker lamp circuit.

The Volvo marker interrupt switch only works on the marker light circuit, not both as it did in the freightliner I used to have.

 

On the old square dash Pete's all mine had a switch up was for day and down was for night (May have that backwards) but the day side would turn all your lights on and the night side would cut them off. But this 06 I just cut my lights on and off with the exception of my breather lights. But for me I just reach down with 3 fingers and flash them.

To tell cars dot was ahead I would flash my headlights most of the time.

 

Actually like pack was referrin to--alot has to do w/wagon you are pullin--For some years now--Utility has been wiring half/half--with rear seperate--so if you cut clearence or hit courtesy it blinks the front and side rails--danes are top and bottom typically--So IF you are tryin to create a blink or courtesy--you may still have issues IF you pull different wagons...
If you are pullin a Utility--there is a quick fix--go to the back of the wagon---up top on passengeer side--most are allready predrilled from side to back--top rail--trace power wire from tailites to top--cut that wire(and terminate properly--then run a jumper from the side rail_(thru predrilled hole)to rear top rail--and now you will blink just the top rail....