A few years back on this forum there was detailed info about pressure checking charge air coolers.
I cannot find it & am curious to know what you guys are using to check them in your own shop?
Replaced mine fall 2010 w/a power max from Detroit. Current top end power is low & seems to be running warmer than usual.
Taking it off & cleaning/inspecting everything while off. Will probably take it to my local radiator shop for today.
They can submerge it in water, add pressure & you immediately know what you have for $20.
But was just curious how anyone else checks theirs on a more routine basis?
Local dealer just told me an hour shop labor with a grin for them to check it.![]()
Charge Air Cooler Pressure check
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by LBZ, Aug 21, 2012.
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i dont think you have a Air cooler problem if you changed it 2 years ago, maybe you have a clogged radiator?what truck do you have?
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any regular car dealership will have a smoke machine for checking vacuum lines. i would call a couple and ask if they have a smoke machine.
find machine. take your air filter out. put it in a trash bag( plastic). then put the air filter back in. then hook up smoke machine to any of the intake lines on the air system. start thesmoke machine and watch the CAC for any smoke leaking out. if there is leaking smoke CAC is bad.
also while the smoke machine is hooked up too the air system, inspect all the parts for any other leaks. the smoke will just be pouring out if so.
this test blows the pressure test away
snap on sells a smoke machine for a grand. do CAC tests in truck stops for 40 bucks a shot, pay for machine. just saying -
Radiator & charge air were both pretty clean. Both of them are just shy of two years old & both came from Detroit radiator. Do run water through them in the summer to clean out the bugs, NOT through a pressure washer, just normal out of a garden hose. Waiting for the radiator shop to call back, a little longer line this time of year.
The smoke machine is a good idea, BUT was thinking there were some pvc plumbing fittings or something that you could pick up at a hardware store. One side to cap & the other side with a drilled in nipple or something to fill with pressure from a air compressor? Thought I read something about that on here?
Also, aside from the obvious, the boots between the cac & turbo, is there a check for them. I know if they are cut/torn/ripped/rubbed etc. to replace them. Am sure mine are original at nearly 10 years old & not sure if they could be leaking/seeping. Called Pete & they were $36.14 each, so kind of pricey to replace just to replace something.DaltonRouth Thanks this. -
I bought plumbers 4" pipe plugs. Drilled a small hole in one of them and put a rubber tipped blow gun in it. Shoot some air in and listen for leaks.
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Going to go pick up the cac. No leaks, but will have it in the truck to match up a test kit.
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take a 8" length of 4" exhaust pipe
stand it on a piece of 1/8" steel weld around it
torch cut around that
repeat on the other side
on 1 end drill a hole and weld a 1/2" union over it
get a small regulator and install in the union
pressure check your welds
cut the exhaust pipe in half
weld a bead around the pipes open end to keep the hoses form blowing off during testing (just clamping will not hold)
smooth it up with a grinder and then clean it up.
ready to use! -
I am trying to upload pic's of my cac tester, but it say's image too large?
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From Heavyhaulerss: I use 3" pve coupling, 3 " female adapt & 3 " threaded plug. & tap into the pvc with a air gauge & a schrader valve.
Last edited: Aug 24, 2012
Cowpie1 Thanks this. -
this size pipe fits snug into the air hose just next to the turbo, have to take turbo horn off. I just use clamp off hose around pvc. testing this way, I found a leak in my manifold where the boost sensor is mounted, the -o- ring was leaking bad, also if you put air in the sys this way you can find much more leaks, than when taken off truck to test, another example where only this type test will do... put air in sys & take off your oil filler cap. put your ear close, if you hear air, you have a leak bypassing your compressor. this is easy to fix with out doing anything with compressor. just plug manifold where the compressor gets it's air, eliminate the hose & put a filter kit on compressor to pull outside air. no hose to leak or break, cause if it did, you would lose air pres plus boost pressure. these 2 leaks I found on my truck this way. to me the manifold hose elimination is a good thing to do regardless.
Cowpie1 Thanks this.
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