Hi everyone I'm trying to get cascadia 2009 with DD15, no DEF, does everyone knows any secrets spots on engine, how to check is that still in a good shape, thanks
buying freightliner cascadia 2009, what I have to check on engine?
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by alexchalyi, Mar 19, 2017.
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Check out the thread @dustinbrock started.https://www.thetruckersreport.com/t...eads/must-dos-when-buying-used-trucks.357817/ He seems to have a comprehensive list of to do's. I don't know if he'll reveal any secret spots to check though. And don't forget to kick the tires!
dustinbrock Thanks this. -
Get the engine oil tested, and get a Dyno done.
Have them clean the DPF for you.
On DD15 the oil tube Orings rot over time, if you ever drop oil pressure during idle or going down the road get the Rings replaced ASAP do not run the engine -
It seemed more of venting than anything else.
To the op, buying a truck is not like buying a car. You have to do steps to make sure that it won't break, but what others don't seem to say is it is always a crap shoot. Every engine is different, every truck is different, mainly because of how it was used and how it was treated.
I will post this again from another thread
Before you do anything read this carefully.
From this thread
http://www.thetruckersreport.com/tr...ne-delt-with-otr-leasing.245383/#post-5495187
OTRReeferRunner wrote this and he is right in target.
FYI! A lot of problems could have been avoided if you guys would have spend the extra $1000 or so to get the truck fully checked out! That is why you should have a 3rd party repable diesel mechanic or dealership check the truck out from the front bumper to the rear mud flaps! The following things a the least should have been done before you took procession of the truck:
1. Oil samples (detects any internal problems with engine, transmission, and rearends)
2. ECU download (detects fault codes, idle hours, actual miles on the truck, and etc.,)[add to this a FULL dump, not a summary]
3. Blowby Test (piston & rings, compression test and etc.,)
4. Dyno test ( a full report on the complete health of the engine)
5. Obtain maintenance reports.
If you don't do the following things you are sure have serious problems with truck! Buying CMV is not like buying a regular passenger vehicle, just walk around it, kick the tires, drive it round the block and sign the paperwork! You are setting youself up for guarantee failure with this approach!
So you can get this.
The truck is spec'ed for the work you do, it does not matter what brand it is because they are all the same. But it does matter on what you are going to use it for.
The truck is cheap part. The repairs and maintaining it isn't.
There are a lot more trucks chasing owners than owners (potential or real) chasing trucks.
You have the check out costs on the front end to fix the problems and then negotiate the price if the truck is acceptable. I wrote up some really good info on how I buy a truck and what I did for a few on the last few used ones.
If you are not willing to put in the $400 to $1000 to check out a truck, then you are asking for problems down the road.
I have bought trucks for $5k and I ran them for 5 years. On the other hand I have junked a couple trucks that were in better shape than those selling for $20 or $30k I've seen advertised.
So a truck is a tool, don't get wrapped up in it, it is just a tool.
One last thing, if you buy cheap, there is a reason for it being cheap.ibcalm19, dustinbrock and 123456 Thank this. -
thanks a lot for everyone
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I want people not to have issues like I've had and want them to know how not to get screwed.spax Thanks this. -
used to have Cummins isx, but never worked with Detroit engines, so don't know weak spots
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Walk away
I bought 09 cascadia dd15 3 years ago, with 680K miles.
In 3 years and 300K miles ownership: 2 overhauls, turbo, radiator, air compressor, clutch you name it, I replaced it.
If I knew it going to be nightmare, I would buy brand new truck.Ezrider_48501 Thanks this. -
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