Buying First Auto Trailer

Hard to beat a 7 car on easy loading. I'd recommend one as a starter trailer. Look for Miller, Cottrell or Wally Mo. Possibly a Sun Valley.

Don't get too hung up on the CA idea. You'll take a huge hit going there. You can make decent money going back and forth between MI and the East coast so there's really no point in going anywhere else

 

I too have a former prime Inc truck. This is my first trailer. You will have to move the 5th wheel back about 2 feet or you won't be able to turn coz of the bulkhead on the trailer. Moving the 5th wheel back brings shifts weight to the tandems so watch your weight. Stop at an auction and talk to and watch drivers as they load. Manheim has locations all across the country. Park there for the night and you will learn alot. I love this job. More $$. No waiting. No appointments. No night time driving. Can't beat it plus I lIke working with my hands.

 

My trailer is a 5307 cottrell. I use straps for small cars and chains mostly for pick up trucks like duallys

 

One of our trucks is a 2012 Cascadia pulling a 7-car Miller. We use straps about 90% of the time; they're faster IMHO, plus, most car dealerships prefer you to strap their vehicles anyhow. OTOH, we do still have chains on the trailer. Those come in real handy when you have a large vehicle on the top rack (like a dualie or a Hummer); vehicles like that can send you over 14' in height real easily so you'll need some way of shaving off a few inches here and there when you need it. Chains used in the right places on those vehicles can often buy you a couple of inches when you ratchet them down tight enough, but do be careful about how and where you chain a vehicle ( you can easily screw up a car if you use chains incorrectly).

If you're buying used (which you most likely will be) then be sure to check the clearance of the rear of the trailer on flat ground. Our first Miller (which was used) had a slightly sagging tail; you couldn't really tell by looking at it. The problem was; when rolling over uneven parking lot entrances, the tail of the trailer would drag over the ground darned near every time. That's a real good way to lose marker lamps, license plates, and chew up wiring.

PROTIP: If you're going to use straps on a chain-type trailer with mesh decks (like our Millers) then try to insert the hooks near the welds on the mesh decks. When you ratchet those straps tight, you'll need the extra strength near those welds; look around and you'll see plenty of mesh decks just ate up and ruined because that mesh was never really designed for strap hooks in the first place. The spots near the weld joints tend to hold up to the stress a lot better than the other areas. Also, take the time and apply/re-apply nonskid wherever your car's tires will be rolling; it's frustrating (and dangerous) whenever you have trouble loading a vehicle because it keeps spinning out over the slick spots and losing traction.

 

Mesh decks? What year is your Miller tech?

 

I think 2007? I'd have to check the registration to be sure. I do know it's had some mods, and the mesh seems to be a common one. We're either going to get rid of it or just use it for the local truck.

 

Car Hauler equipment rusts from the inside out. Just because the metal beams LOOK ok, doesn't mean they are. Tap on them with a hammer and you may be surprised how rusted they are. Miller has a model with a shorter area over the fifth wheel, but that gives you a longer area in the bottom of the trailer. Most high mount trailers are overweight on the rear axles when fully loaded, the axles are set to conform to California's kingpin to axle law. I always thought a 3 axle trailer would be able to scale the load easier. Another choice is if you are going to put a PTO pump and oil tank on the truck or a self contained unit on the trailer with an electric pump connected to your trucks batteries.