Burning smell and wheel burning hot

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Artj, Jul 8, 2023.

  1. Artj

    Artj Bobtail Member

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    I have a 2018 Volvo VNL with 600k miles on it and the drivers side steer wheel just got burning hot and smoking. It just so happened thankfully I had just pulled off at a loves. I went and asked the techs to come out and see if they could tell me what's going on.

    As they walked up they immediately cringed and said that smoke was from burning oil. They couldn't tell me much other than they don't work on disc brakes and that based on the limited knowledge they have of this particular situation that I may need yo have the entire hub replaced and that it would cost me $3000 dollars.

    I've seen a lot of random tid bits online and I don't know what is up or down with this. So I was hoping someone on here could give me a better idea of what's going on and what to expect.

    (I also checked the hub oil level and it was low but not crazy low and I did top it off.)
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2023
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  3. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    By your description it could either be cooked wheel bearings or a wheel seal that's failed and coated the disc, making it burn when you were on the brakes to turn into the truckstop.

    Look on the back side of the wheel, is there oil spewed out everywhere?

    Regardless, I would have the truck towed to a shop because if it is the bearings, you're risking fire, major damage to the hub/spindle and possibly loss of the wheel.
     
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  4. Artj

    Artj Bobtail Member

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    I am 2 miles away from a TA stopped at the loves. Will is kill me to drive it 2 miles to the ta with is completely cooled off? Also i fogured a picture is worth a lot more than my judgement. 20230708_172008.jpg
     
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  5. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    Hard to say, backside of that tire and rim look too clean to have been a wheel seal failure. Almost looks like it could be bearing failure and the resulting heat is what took out the wheel seal.
     
  6. aussiejosh

    aussiejosh Road Train Member

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    Simple test if its the wheel bearing, immediately after you've driven a few miles at high speeds, point a temp gun at the wheel hub and compare temp on the other steer wheel hub its its a good 20 ° f above the normal its more than likely the seal has gone and the bearing is starting to collapse.
     
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  7. Last Call

    Last Call Road Train Member

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    I can see oil running down the inside of the rim which means the wheel seal is cooked
    Would I drive it 2miles ??? IDK
    I myself might Am I suggesting you do ... Iam only saying what I might do.. and my luck is not always good
     
  8. 201

    201 Road Train Member

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    Looks like the caliper leaking brake fluid,,,,HA, :p,, just seeing if anyone actually reads my posts. There's only one place there's oil, and that's the bearing. The bearing may not be totally fried, and the oil leaking on the hot disc is causing the smell. A bad bearing, you'll feel it in the steering wheel, and eventually will sieze and lose the wheel. You are no where near that point, and good job catching it. I'd stay away from both places, and who knows who is tightening your steer axle bearings. I'd almost trust a dealer in that regard. Good job, driver!:thumbup:
     
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  9. Artj

    Artj Bobtail Member

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    Thank you, unfortunately unless I want to pay an insane amount to have it towed to a dealer far from here I'm stuck with TA. I limped it at 10 mph to the TA this morning.

    Sadly this truck has been a money pit and I'm scraping by at the moment so I can't really afford to do anything. I have had this truck for 3 months and have already replaced the transmission, starter twice, a bunch of sensors and now this.

    I really appreciate all of you guys chipping in your info.
     
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  10. 201

    201 Road Train Member

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    Correction, ALL trucks are money pits. A wheel bearing is pretty simple, and a good decision to stay put. Hang in there, repairs are always the bane of the o/o, and why many simply can't afford to run, and go with a company job. I had my own from 1988 to 1993, and couldn't imagine doing it today. Look at it this way, at least you won't have to worry about the things you fixed. Remember, someone got rid of it BECAUSE it needed work. You simply inherited their problems. An old farmer friend told me once, if it isn't broke, you aren't using it. Best of luck, pal.
     
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  11. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Hopefully they won’t charge you too much. Looks like the seal leaked, probably got hot, bearings might be damaged. Some places will try to make you replace a perfectly good spindle. Spindle May be discolored from burnt oil. They may see that as a heat damaged compromised spindle. The Truck stops especially might take it apart, and refuse to put it back together unless you buy a new $1600 spindle. You need new bearings, and seal. New bearings come with new races. TA often won’t change races in front hubs. That’s OK, get a new hub/bearing kit if needed. It’s not too much more expensive than bearings. Maybe $500. Saves on Labor anyways. Find parts yourself if possible. TA will add 30-60% to prices. Make sure they check the end play using a dial indicator. Very important, especially on your Truck. I once saw a TA refuse do a front bearing on Volvo. Their reason was past problems getting the final torque correct. Good Luck. With a new hub if needed, maybe it won’t be much. $1500.00?? New spindle? It’s going to get ugly. Unless it’s physically damaged, or the race is welded onto it, or new race spins on it. You shouldn’t need a new spindle. Unfortunately once it’s apart, your at their mercy. I’d rather find a decent Mobil Mechanic than be at the mercy of TA. You should emphasize these things with them. Those idiots will replace the whole front end if you let them.
     
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