noticed this morning that one of the rear studs on the exhaust manifold is broke off. It is not leaking and I was wondering is a guy should fix it or just leave it alone. At first I was set on fixing it but I remember the last time I had the exhaust manifold off a few of the other studs broke and it turned into a major PITA to get everything back together. Stud is broken off inside the manifold, but looks like it is still sticking out of the head so you could possibly grab on to it and back it out.
ETA engine is a single turbo Cat so there isn't a ton of stuff to remove.
broken exhaust manifold stud
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by gunner76, Aug 29, 2015.
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It is only a matter of time before the gasket blows. Because you pay enough attention to your truck you can schedule your down time instead of it scheduling you. I usually put the next larger size nut on those and weld it. Then unscrew the stud. If they break off flush with the head try to find someone who can lay a piece of key stock or bolt off center and weld them together, use stainless rod. They usually unscrew with out deep prayer or learning new vocabulary words. Replace them all and torque to spec.
Ezrider_48501, lilillill, gunner76 and 1 other person Thank this. -
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Why stainless rod? I've done this method with other broken bolts but never heard of using stainless?
gunner76 Thanks this. -
Because when the man that bailed me out when I had an EZ-OUT broke off said so. Maybe it is stronger? He also was talking about going deep in a hole and building it up a puddle or spot weld at a time. The flux makes a barrier between the weld and the female threads, maybe the flux on stainless does better? He also said an exact # that I do not recall 306 or 7? Wonder what it cost? Same it cost you! He said he owed all his knowledge and abilities to the Lord. Just thank the Lord. I am still learning but every time one comes out I say "Thank ya Lord".
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the way I have gotten them out is to take a torch and put some heat on the stud then stick a regular wax candle on it and let some wax melt into it. after it cools down completely take a sharp punch and hit the end of stud with the punch and hammer to shock it. if there is enough sticking out to grab it should come out. if not then a good quality drill bit is the next step with an easyout. drill until you feel it bottom out in the hole (and you will feel it) spray penetrating oil in the hole and walk away for a good part of the day. should spin right out. worse case drill out hole and helicoil it.
BoxCarKidd and gunner76 Thank this. -
After looking at it some more I noticed the front port has a slight leak so when I have the truck in the shop in a couple of weeks during my vacation I'm going to add that to the list of stuff I want done. Hopefully since the manifold was put on 100k ago when I did the other mods everything will come off fine.
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never ever reuse studs or nuts on the manifold. don't over torque them!
snowman_w900 and Oxbow Thank this. -
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get the new studs, nuts and sleeves from Bully Dog they are ARP made, a little more money but 100% 316 stainless and the quality is amazing.
ARP Manifold Studs (85212)
ARP Manifold Studs. Work on all North American Cat Engines
$ 139.99
Stainless Steel Manifold Spacers for Cat Engines (85213)
Stainless Steel Manifold Spacers for Cat Engines. Work on all North American Cat Engines $ 139.99snowman_w900, bigguns and gunner76 Thank this.
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