brake or hub issue

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by gunner76, Sep 2, 2015.

  1. gunner76

    gunner76 Medium Load Member

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    Sorry in advance for the long winded post but I want to get in all the info I can. I put new brakes on my drives the other day and first off noticed that I had two wheel seals starting to leak. I don't have the stuff to change them yet so I just put the new brakes on and made an appointment with my mechanic to get the seals done the next day. After the brakes were done I took the truck out for a 15 mile drive to check them over and when I got back I noticed one of the brakes was hot. I jacked the wheels up and spun them and could hear the brake dragging in one spot and that the bottom shoe was a little tight. I also had a bad vibration that wasn't there before.

    I backed the brake off a bit more and drove it to my mechanic to get the seals fixed. The brake was about the same temp as the others after making the 40 mile trip to my mechanic. He fixed the seals and looked the brakes over. S cam didn't have any play but the drum was out of round. Threw a new drum on and took for a test drive, brake was still getting warm. Mechanic backed off a bit more and said the shoe might just be a little out of spec and needs a little longer to mate to the drum.

    I've been keeping an eye on it and the drum and hub have been running a little warmer than the other three. I checked tonight when I got home and after driving 60 miles without using tractor brakes(used hand brake and jakes) this is what I found:

    Bottom shoe is still very close to drum and cannot be rocked back and forth like other shoes(must have self adjusted while driving). Checked hub and drum temps with an IR thermometer:

    Drum temps were within 10* of each other all around 90-98*. Hub temps were farther apart.

    Right rear(problem brake) 118*. this one had bad seal
    Right front(also had bad seal) 105*
    Left front 104*
    left rear 98*

    Do you guys think I got a bad set of brake shoes and the slight drag is causing the extra heat and slight vibration? Mechanic checked the two bearings with the leaky seals(including the problem brake) and said they were fine. This problem just started after I put the new brakes on.

    Also vibration is for the most part gone. Was really bad above 45 but now I just get a slight shake at 45 and again at 70, but it's only noticeable on really smooth roads and could be the tires. I also had 8 new drives installed along with equal packs in each, the lug nuts with centering collar all the way around, and an alignment. The shake started after the brake job and was happening with both the old and new sets of tires.
     
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  3. baha

    baha Road Train Member

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    Did you buy balanced brake drums?
     
  4. gunner76

    gunner76 Medium Load Member

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    I don't really know, I just told the mechanic to put a new one on. This is the same place I've bought all my drums from and have never had a problem. I know it probably doesn't make a difference but they only use the US made drums and not the ones from china. I'm still thinking the problem is the brake shoes since they are the only thing left that hasn't been changed since all this started, but who knows it could be something like a wheel bearing that just happened to get bad at the same time as the brae change.
     
  5. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    If it happened with both new and old tires you can probably rule them out as suspect. Is it possible that a wrong brake shoe was accidentally given to you when you picked up the parts? The fact that you had a leaking seal on that wheel is making me think maybe some oil leaked out onto the new linings? Is the slack adjuster on that wheel maintaining the proper adjustment? Other things I have seen cause brake binding issues are bent S-cam brackets. Since your vibration only shows up at 2 different speeds it could be possible that a u-joint went bad at the same time you did brakes?
     
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  6. gunner76

    gunner76 Medium Load Member

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    The brakes were correct, I checked them before installing. I went ahead and got another set of shoes to try hoping maybe the liner is slightly bent.

    Seal was just starting to leak and hadn't made it to the linings yet, I've had far worse and never had problems.

    slack adjuster is working properly

    I'll check the cam brackets, will the bend be noticeable?

    vibration at first was at every speed above 45 but now has gotten better and only is noticeable at the two speeds, but I'll check the u joints again to see if one is bad.

    I originally thought the cam bushings were bad since the top shoe wasn't wearing quite as fast as the bottom but the mechanic said the bushings were still good.

    This is getting frustrating, I had no problems with all the old stuff on and after putting new on(which should've made things better)now have these issues.
     
  7. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    What about the anchor pins on the opposite side of the spider from the cams? Worn out pin/bushing on top and an un-worn one on the bottom would make the bottom shoe do more work since the top shoe wouldn't be in exactly the opposite position and centered within the drum.

    If the cam tube itself is only slightly bent, it might be hard to see but that could also account for the bottom shoe being tighter if it were bent upwards.
     
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  8. gunner76

    gunner76 Medium Load Member

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    Another update. I tried another set of shoes and it made no difference. While I had everything apart I checked the slop in the S cam and it had right around 1/16" at the s cam which my mechanic said should be fine. He stills suggests that I should drive it for awhile to let the shoe seat to the drum and the problem would go away. I told him the hub temps I was getting and he said as long as the hub temps don't get above 140 or so on a hot day I'll be fine.

    As for the vibration both him and my tire guy said to give the tires 4-5k to settle in and see if the vibration goes away. They said since the vibration was at 45-50 and then at 70 it was a classic sign of tire vibration. I keep thinking of the time I had a vibration I couldn't track down which ended up being my rear end tearing itself because one of the crush washers inside came apart. I just changed the gear oil and it was clean but I might find a clean container and drop it again just to check and then put the fluid back in.
     
  9. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Jack that wheel up and turn it by hand, does the bottom shoe stay tight? If yes remove the drum and tighten the adjuster to turn the cam 180 degrees and reassemble. If the top shoe stays tight the cam is bent. If the s-cam housing is bent bad enough to cause that you should be able to see it by brake chamber height in relation to axle housing and others. Jack them all up one at a time and rotate by hand. Look for drums running true to shoes and check for tires out of round with a block close to tread. Yes question balance, wrong drum and did the air ride height possibly get changed? Just some thoughts but do not follow my order, do easiest first, good luck.
     
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