Best truck/hopper trailer combination

Discussion in 'Tanker, Bulk and Dump Trucking Forum' started by trucker21r, Mar 23, 2022.

  1. trucker21r

    trucker21r Bobtail Member

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    Our farm is going to buy a truck and a hopper trailer to haul our own grain. Thinking of possibly hauling commercial 1 week per month , or so, to try to make a little extra when not farming. Will buy a flatbed to haul our hay but that's another discussion. Been searching online forums trying to find out the best truck/trailer combination. Not so much make/models, just dimensions. I see a lot of spread/triple axles running. We are in Kansas and would probably stay in this area (80k tandem, 85.5k spread). Would a daycab 220ish" wheelbase, with a pusher axle, pulling a 42'x96 hopper be my most efficient and cheapest maintenance setup? I've read one forum where a guy has a 226" wheelbase, 36" sleeper with a timpte tandem, super singles, weighing 24.5K with fuel, and can put on roughly 55K to get to 80K. His claim is with that combo and shorter tandem he can net about the same as a spread axle. I like his thought on being as light as possible with a tandem, and not trying to pull a 48-50' trailer around. I thought maybe with the pusher it would allow me a little extra to go into neighboring states. I just want to be as efficient as possible for the minimal time I am out. Not looking to talk about insurance, etc. Thanks for any advice.

    https://www.kansashighwaypatrol.org/DocumentCenter/View/178/Weight-Enforcement-Facts-PDF
     
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  3. Long FLD

    Long FLD Road Train Member

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    Buy the permit so you can gross 90k with ag products on 6 axles. I’d just run a regular truck with a triple axle grain trailer. It will load easier/better for getting your weights rights versus trying to load enough in the front hopper to make use of a lift axle on a truck.

    My old truck with a triple axle Timpte was 30,500 empty, give or take a little, so I could load almost 60k in KS.
     
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  4. trucker21r

    trucker21r Bobtail Member

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    Thanks Long FLD, exactly the type of input I'm trying to come up with. I've seen that combination more and more in Kansas it seems, but I still also see 4 axle trucks (lift) with spread axle, 3 axle trucks with spread, 3 axle truck with tandem. I've even considered a cabover but I think a conventional day cab would be most comfortable, possibly with a 30-40" sleeper. Do you run super singles anywhere on your truck/trailer or just stick with duals?
     
  5. Long FLD

    Long FLD Road Train Member

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    When I had my hopper I had duals everywhere except the rear lift axle on the trailer.

    I had 72” sides also because of what I was hauling. If you got a daycab and low side triple you should be well under 30k empty.
     
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  6. Cattleman84

    Cattleman84 Road Train Member

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    Can you run an A-train setup in KS? Round my part of the country that is about all you see hauling grain. Think they mostly are 3 axle trucks 42' tandem lead with a 32' pup... Some run a 36' tandem for a lead I think.

    Round here that setup can gross 105,500.
     
  7. Long FLD

    Long FLD Road Train Member

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    No. Kansas is 90k max on 6 axles for ag products. Non-ag is 85,500 max. Interstates are still 80k max.
     
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  8. trucker21r

    trucker21r Bobtail Member

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    I'm going to bother you one last time. Please excuse my stupidity. A friend that hauls cattle was told by a local dot officer that the most efficient way to haul cattle is with a pusher axle on the truck and a spread axle trailer (is it true? i don't know). That is the reason for my questions. I know I should just get the triple and be done, but I'm finding tandems a lot cheaper, and how many trips will it take to pay it off with an extra 3-4 tons per load going to a triple. But I'm also not afraid of sliding a pusher under a truck and fabricating a 24" sleeper (dot minimum?)

    In Kansas with 6 axles, to bridge 85.5k you must be 53'. So I'm assuming to get the 90k permit I must be 53'. My calculations, trailer length minus 52 inches will get the bridge length. Example, a 42' trailer minus 52 inches = 452". Add on a 210" WB truck (with pusher) and I'm at 55.16'= feet. Could I slider the 5th wheel all the way forward (assuming enough clearance) and be close to weight limits on on all axles? With a 40' foot trailer that'd put me right at 53 feet, but like you stated earlier, I would have a hard time getting my axle weights correct. Sorry for overthinking this and throwing out random dumb ideas, but I can find cheap 42' trailers and short wheel base trucks all over. (compared to triple axle trailers and big sleeper trucks) Thanks again
     
  9. trucker21r

    trucker21r Bobtail Member

    17
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    Jun 19, 2019
    0
    I'm going to bother you one last time. Please excuse my stupidity. A friend that hauls cattle was told by a local dot officer that the most efficient way to haul cattle is with a pusher axle on the truck and a spread axle trailer (is it true? i don't know). That is the reason for my questions. I know I should just get the triple and be done, but I'm finding tandems a lot cheaper, and how many trips will it take to pay it off with an extra 3-4 tons per load going to a triple. But I'm also not afraid of sliding a pusher under a truck and fabricating a 24" sleeper (dot minimum?)

    In Kansas with 6 axles, to bridge 85.5k you must be 53'. So I'm assuming to get the 90k permit I must be 53'. My calculations, trailer length minus 52 inches will get the bridge length. Example, a 42' trailer minus 52 inches = 452". Add on a 210" WB truck (with pusher) and I'm at 55.16'= feet. Could I slider the 5th wheel all the way forward (assuming enough clearance) and be close to weight limits on on all axles? With a 40' foot trailer that'd put me right at 53 feet, but like you stated earlier, I would have a hard time getting my axle weights correct. Sorry for overthinking this and throwing out random dumb ideas, but I can find cheap 42' trailers and short wheel base trucks all over. (compared to triple axle trailers and big sleeper trucks) Thanks again
     
  10. RockinChair

    RockinChair Road Train Member

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  11. Last Call

    Last Call Road Train Member

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    What that DOT officer told your friend is true.. .. All I can say is it sounds like your gona go to alot of work to side a pusher axle under your tractor then hack up your sleeper to do it ??? And your going to end up with a Cootered up mess with not as much resale value
    JMO.. but I would either trade trucks or trailers ..I personally would trade my trailer for a 53' tri axle 10' spread with a tag behind the spread.. that's just me though
     
  12. trucker21r

    trucker21r Bobtail Member

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    Appreciate the advice, I'll probably try to find a triple and be done with it. Just down the road is a fairly large truck salvage yard, so my thought was it would be easy to source a pusher axle, and I've built small sleepers for a few farmers on their century/columbia in the area and they went nuts for it so I could always sell the truck, I just went to the salvage yard and got a roof cap,interior, etc and it looks like a factory unit. I'm just nervous about pulling a long trailer as some of the elevators that were designed at a time of short combinations, but maybe I just need to stop worrying and start doing.
     
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