I have been searching online for a while now about reviews or info on all the available 2 piece clutch brakes. We have a freightliner that has gone through a throw out bearing and it killed the clutch brake. We initially cut out the brake thinking that was it, and after the new 2 piece failed in less than a month, we reailzed the bearing was moving almost diagonally on the shaft (turns out the grease fitting was hidden and it was never being greased!).
now moving forward, We have gone through two more of these brakes:
SCB200 by WORLD AMERICAN - CLUTCH BRAKE - 2", 2 PIECE HIN
One destroyed itself within a few months, and the current one sheared the tabs off. I am about to order the 5th clutch brake for this truck and I am just looking for any advice on what the preferred brake is?
Thank you in advance for any opinions...
Casey
Best 2 piece clutch brake
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by AK Casey, Apr 23, 2021.
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Sounds more whomever is driving it needs to learn how to not push the clutch to the floor when moving
Jaebo74, BoxCarKidd, Hulld and 4 others Thank this. -
AK Casey, BoxCarKidd, Flint1 and 3 others Thank this.
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Preferred clutch brake is 127760 one piece.
black_dog106, BoxCarKidd and Flint1 Thank this. -
When the preferred one piece is broken I cut them out and install a 2 piece. In those I prefer the aluminum one with alen screws.
The one Goody likes is probably the toughest and I don't care for the snap together deal.
Look closely at the shaft. When the tabs are broken off in a clutch brake it spins on the shaft. That wears the shaft down and no brake is going to last long on a worn shaft. Put grease on the sides of the brake. For one customer I adjust the clutch brake for very light application. They have off road machines with Fuller transmissions. Some of their folks just do not understand when they mash the clutch to the floor while rolling that little brake is trying to stop the machine, The aluminum one will break and fall out before it damages anything else.AK Casey, Dino soar, spsauerland and 2 others Thank this. -
The biggest drawback to the 2 piece is the lack of dampening abilities. The second is smaller friction surface area takes more effort.
The biggest thing is make sure its greased. Its design is to slow the input shaft, not stop the the truck. Its doesnt need to be dry.AK Casey, black_dog106, spsauerland and 1 other person Thank this. -
All we ever use is the Babcock brand, fast and easy to replace, hold up well.
AK Casey Thanks this. -
Ok so did you actually correct the root cause by putting a new clutch assembly in it??????
If you haven't, you're wasting time and money throwing clutch brakes at it.AK Casey Thanks this. -
Yes we fixed the root cause. Throwout bearing failed, and caused the clutch to be hitting the brake before it was released. When the first broke, we thought it was the brake failure that caused the solo clutch to over adjust. When we replaced the brake and readjusted the clutch, it lost its adjustment almost the first week and burned out the new brake.
The third brake (second new one) was put in by the shop that replaced the clutch and bearing. It disintegrated inside the transmission. I believe the shop didn't lock it in place correctly and it came off the shaft (not the first time we have had to go back and fix work done by this particular shop). The current one could be driver error, but I don't tend to believe that. My brother and I are the only drivers, and both of us have a combined 35 years of experience with NO clutch brakes failing before this one.
Probably going to try the Babcock. Thanks for all the help, and I will still check back for more opinions/info
Casey -
Just installed the Babcock. A little tricky, had to remove the clutch fork and slave cylinder assembly to get enough room to put it in place. I can feel a good difference in how well this grabs compared to the one that came out...
Casey
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