I have a Dodge 3500 that I use to haul horses acroww the country. I am upgrading my cb to a Galaxy DX959 and a Texas Star 500v. The guy setting it up suggested i change my antenna to a Wilson 5000 (which I am not opposed to) I just always thought that my "load" had to be above the cab of the truck? So base load or center? Ready go!!! Mounted behind the stake hole on the bed rail drivers side. Also if I get it over the truck cab NO WAY itll get over the trailer!
base load vs center load on a Dodge
Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by amcburnett, Mar 21, 2013.
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A Wilson 1000 or 5000 Magnet mount base load dead center on the roof of the cab will do a great job.
The whip will be taller than your trailer.That antenna comes with a 62 inch whip.
I had the same setup with an enclosed car hauler trailer and a 3500 Ram.
My Galaxy would talk great in that truck. -
if it made that big of a difference, then why does the K40 trunk mount and the wilson trunk mount have the loads at the base of the antenna? the trucker versions have the shaft, then the load and then the whip. i say it makes no big performance gain, unless your running a 1500 dollar kenwood or a Yaesu.
and if anyone wants a real radio, feast your eyeballs on this one below.
http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/hamhf/0950.html -
Simply because it's easier to secure a base load antenna. The reason "trucker" antennas are center load is bottom load antennas really do not take well to co-phasing.
Basic Rules:
- Top loaded (helical wire-wounds) perform better than center loaded Antennas, center loaded Antennas perform better than base loaded Antennas.
- Taller Antennas perform better than shorter ones.
- Antennas mounted higher perform better than if mounted lower.
- Single Antennas perform better when mounted as close to center as possible on metal vehicles.
- Base loaded Antennas cannot be co-phased with satisfactory results.
- Fiberglass and aluminum vehicles, or those with little available ground plane, need co-phased or "no ground plane" Antennas systems.
- The physical length of the antenna should be determined by the likelihood of repetitive hitting of overhead objects and/or the type and strength of the antenna mount itself.
- At least two-thirds of the antenna should be above a vehicles roof line for optimum performance.
- If the antenna/mount combination is available in a kit form, you will normally save money by purchasing it as a kit.
- The bandwidth of the antenna should always meet or exceed the needs of a 40 channel CB.
- If you put 4 watts into a four-foot antenna, you will get the same power out of that antenna as if you were putting 2 watts into a 102-inch whip.
- If you put 4 watts into a 3-foot antenna you will get the same power out as if you were putting about 1.5 watts into a 102-inch whip.
- If you put 4 watts into a 7.5 inch antenna on a hand held CB, it would put out as much power as a third of a watt into a 102-whip.
- If you put 4 watts into a 102-inch whip antenna, it is the same output as if you put 11 watts into a 3-foot whip.
- If you put 4 watts into a 102-inch whip antenna,, it is the same as if you put 14 watts into a 28-inch antenna.
- If you put 4 watts into a 102-inch whip antenna, it is the same as if you put 54 watts into a 7.5 antenna.
- If the SWR on channel 40 is greater than that on channel 1, your antenna is considered to be "LONG" and reduction of physical height and/or conductor length will correct this
situation.
MsJamie Thanks this. - Top loaded (helical wire-wounds) perform better than center loaded Antennas, center loaded Antennas perform better than base loaded Antennas.
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