Been getting some vibration when under load and getting on the brakes. Was checking the steering today and noticed this when I grab the steering shaft and turn it back and forth. Bad drag link I think?
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Bad drag link?
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by RunningAces, Oct 3, 2021.
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That is no bueno.
Is that nut torqued down on there?shooter19802003 Thanks this. -
That nut is loose. Good chance the upper steering arm is wallowed out and no good now.
Bean Jr., shooter19802003, Big Road Skateboard and 1 other person Thank this. -
Twist the draglink as well. It should not be loose like that. Easy fix though. I replaced mine, it was as easy as removing the cotter pins and nuts and putting the new draglink on and tightening the nuts back down and putting in new cotter pins. Ironically the original size nuts that came off were 33mm and the new nuts were 1 5/16ths, so I had to go back to the hardware store and buy a new wrench.
Bean Jr. and feldsforever Thank this. -
Thanks guys I'll get it fixed up.
Bean Jr. Thanks this. -
One more question, I just took the pin out and tried to take the nut off the side that isn't connected to the Pittman arm. Instead of the nut turning the bolt turned with no resistance. Is it broken inside or what? There is nowhere to grab a hold of it with another wrench to stop the entire bolt from turning.
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Its not a bolt, its a ball stud. The shank is tapered to match the taper in the upper steer arm, which locks it in place.
You might have to get a jack or something and push the drag link back up into the taper to hold it.
That ball stud should have some resistance to turning. It could be worn if it spins with no resistance. With that nut being loose my advice would be to remove it and inspect the taper on the ball stud and the tapered hole in the upper steer arm. If its been pounded out from running loose it may never seat correctly again.Bean Jr., feldsforever, shooter19802003 and 5 others Thank this. -
See what happens when your bored and hungry...
feldsforever, JoeyJunk and Vampire Thank this. -
Tighten it as tight as you can get it. Then back it off just enough to line the holes up to replace the cotter pin. If the link or the bar still have any play after it's all tightened back up then replace them both because they could be egged out from the play depending on how long it's been going on. I'd love to know why the cotter pin isn't there.
Bean Jr. and shooter19802003 Thank this. -
Looks like someone finger tightened the nut and called it good. Definitely not suppose to do that.....
Bean Jr., shooter19802003, JoeyJunk and 1 other person Thank this.
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