Webstermike1, I went to Napa to find that A/C Delco Alternator you mentioned part# 213-4530 they said it's not a good number. Is there any other number you can help me with? Next question if I get the 105 amps will I need to change the belt from K060490 to K060470? Thanks in advance for your time!!!
APU Tri-pac not charging batteries
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by CommDriver, Mar 7, 2009.
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Bumping this thread with some more current info and a few pics.
The alternator I settled on came from Advance Auto Parts, their Carquest number 8103-7AN. I had really wanted a new one versus a reman. I didn't discover it was a reman until I went to the store and picked it up. I was out of time, so did not back out and try something else. On the upside, it does have a lifetime warranty so I can get it swapped out with no hassle from now on. I may also get a core refund. The guy at the store said, as long as there's a lump of alternator in the box when I return, I'll get credit.
I elected to go with the 105A and not the 120A, due to limited time and not wanting to add additional time adapting more stuff to fit the bigger case. I don't run heavy loads on my inverter much at all, so really 65A is good enough. But the 105A does give me a bit more margin. Like a random time when I need to boil water in the microwave for 3-5 minutes for oatmeal or ramen noodles. Even that isn't too bad.
The regulator pigtail is carried at Advance, BWD part number PT-200.
I did the fan swap myself. The washer behind the fan was easy. Getting the spacing behind the car pulley was a little tricky. Not many hardware stores carry washers like you need that will fit the 5/8" shaft, and also fit inside the back of the pulley. I made it work with a split washer.
NAPA has given me another reason to quit shopping there, by changing their belt numbering system and not offering any cross reference to the old system. That, by the way, had been in use since I worked on cars in the '80's and until only a few years ago apparently.
The guy at Advance was pretty much refusing to do any matching up, so I tried a different method. The belt I took off was a Goodyear Gatorback 6PK1245. That translates to six groove 1245mm outside circumference. Many searches later, 6PK1195 comes up as a valid number for the next smaller size, just under two inches shorter. I find that cross referenced at Summit Racing to a Dayton 5060470. My nearby Advance got that one from a different store in about an hour.
I had to leave the alternator unattached to the adjuster for it to swing in far enough to get the smaller belt on the pulleys. Once I had the belt seated in it's grooves, I was able to pry the alternator out the tiny bit needed to slip the bolt into the adjuster, that I had already turned all the way in. Then, a few turns out on the adjuster to get proper tension.
I also replaced my ground wire, mainly because the old one was a hack job and had visual signs of having been hot before. I bought a 24" 4 ga starter cable at Advance and some crimp terminals. I cut the cable down to the 6" length I needed and put a new terminal on the cut end. The cable terminals were 3/8" and the ground bolt on the alternator is an M8-1.5 x 20mm. Not a match, but close enough for a good ground. I did not have time, or I would have found some 5/16" 4 ga ring terminals and done it right.
Everything started and ran fine. 14.4V indicated on my inverter, so good to go.
A few remarks.
For what it's worth, my TriPac is a 2005 model with 27,000+ hours on it. Chances are, you are probably working on a newer one. There may be some minor differences.
This is not an easy job to do, mainly due to the crappy (rusty) condition you will find when you open up the case and get in there. I worked on cars for a decade back in the day. I have compressed air and a pro set of tools at home, and deep experience at getting rusted messed up stuff apart without breaking things. If you're going to attempt this in a truck stop parking lot, choose one with a shop in the event you get deep into it and get stuck due to lack of tools or the right touch to get things to work.
Also either have a good selection of hardware on hand, or be close to a hardware store. You'll need to replace some of the fasteners along the way, and it sure is nice to go back in with new stuff instead of rigging the old junk.
On the electrical connections, use dielectric grease in connectors and heat shrink splices if you must splice anything. When I got into this three years ago when I bought the truck, I re-did some of the cable ends, and dropped solder into them since I didn't have the proper crimping tool. Since then, I got a hydraulic crimper off Amazon for about $40. Well worth the money, and will enable you to make your own battery cables. Bottom line, these apu cases are exposed to the very worst conditions and are very prone to water and salt intrusion. The cleaner you get these things put together, the longer they last. Unfortunately, the Thermo King installers usually don't take the time to do things up really nice to last forever.
Use lots of anti-seize on the fasteners. I've been into my TriPac before, and it made this time soooo much better. This time I am also replacing the lower enclosure and bottom access panel on mine, since there is more rust than metal in many places making securement a problem. In fact, the rear piece that the muffler clamps go around has finally rusted completely off. So I either replace that lower enclosure or rig it up even more. I'm done rigging. In the pictures below, I have the exhaust hanging with coat hanger wire for a test run. My enclosure parts are due in today, so I'll get those on and the exhaust properly mounted when I install them.
Here's the front view
Here's the rear view
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