Anybody running more than 4 batteries?

Unless your trying to draw a large amount(ie pull the batteries way down) before driving (re-charging) then your alternator should do fine. If your trying to run the inverter off just the add-on batteries then you should use an isolator to keep from pulling the truck batteries down too far. Its possible to run a relay to the starter from your low voltage alarm which would re=start the truck if the truck batteries start to get too low. As long as your not trying to run a fridge and AC unit you should be fine. I have a formula somewhere that allows you to calculate battery amps/ watts draw and run time. I'll have to look for it.



Found it.... http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/sports-imports/BatterydrainCalc.html

 

I woud run a second bank of deep cycle batteries along with your normal batteries and a isolator in between them just like 2mouths2feed mentioned. Then just run all your extra power stuff off of the deep cycle bank. This way you will always have enough volts (for the ECM) and cold cranking amps (for the starter) in the morning. I personally have considered going to this type of set up since I don't idle at night and have had a couple of low battery mornings as a result. Also if you wanted to spare some of the abuse on you alternator you could put a disconnect in between the banks too. This way you could have the deep cycle disconnected from the charging system in the morning when you start the truck and just reconnect after a hour or so of running to recharge them the rest of the day. In this situation your alternator won't be running at max capacity trying to fully recharge both banks and most likely operate the normal electrical driving systems (wipers, lights, heat/ac system, you get the drift).

 

All that is needed is a Ford type, or something similar, starter selonoid between the positive cable of the main batteries, and the positive cable of the aux. batteries.

This can be set up to energize when the switch is turned on, or operated from a seperate toggle switch.

This would isolate the batteries when the switch is off, but charge them when the truck is running.

 

or it can be energized by an oil pressure switch screwed into an oil port on the motor. that way you are sure it won't open and drain your starting batteries unless the motor is running.

 

by the way. get used to that price on the pad mount alternators. they are crazy expensive. I have one too. Hope you never get stuck at a truck stop with one burned out.

you don't need to upgrade it anyays since you are not trying to compensate for a high load in a realtime situation

 

yup, thats the old style. I put that exact same one on my pete a few months back.

You won't find any that cheap in a pad mount. Which is total BS really, there is no reason for it other then "they can"

 

Yes, you can add deep cycle batteries,,, Yes, use a battery isolator in line ""a must as not to drain down your start batteries" Best battery to install are 2ea trojan T105 6v deep cycle. The will out last the 12VDC battery, they have a longer hr rate than the 12VDC,,, I've been using deep cycle for 20+ yrs and the 6vdc battery is the best on the market. You can buy the isolator and battery at your local RV sales center, they will also answer any question, Trojan battery is also sold for golf carts, standard battery is the Mfg.

 

Is there a way to charge a bank of batteries without putting any undue/abnormal stress on the alternator----no more than say lights, radio, a/c etc.?

NOTES:

1) i'm proposing/planning running about 6 deepcycle batteries, each battery will be about 55AH.

2) The truck will run at least 12 hours before shutting down.

3) It's a company truck. So, we probably can't switch alternators. But let me worry about that.

4) there won't be any 34 hour resets, so let's not worry about that.

i'm thinking there could be like a plug in type charger that could plug into the cigarette outlet or something?