Anchor pin bushing removal

Any plain ol ball joint press will do the job. Run her tight with the impact and smack the screw with a sledge and it'll pop little bit at a time if they are really frozen. If not stuck too bad they may come right out. Only problem with this tool is if the sleeve comes out with the pin it wont fit through the hole in the press causing more troubles. If your a one timer or dont do many this is the tool for you.

Top dog is the Snap on anchor pin press. Doesnt flex, itll take a 3/4 impact and the pin and bushing fit through the hole, but get your wallet out.

I think Tiger Tool makes one middle of the road but haven't had the pleasure of test driving yet.

Course before I grab the press I usually just see if they will come out with a good air hammer. CP717 is my favorite flavor, but again expensive.

I get torches out only as a last resort and not very often do I need them for a brake job.

 

Can't remember the tool maker but there is one making a nice set for an air hammer that I have that has held up well. I have a Lisle bushing remover/installer set that has seen the welder many a times, but would work fine for the occasional brake job that has air hammer attachment. Also have the Snap-on press and it works great too for the pins and bushings and clears all hubs.

 

Weld a large flat washer to a new anchor pin, makes a perfect driver for bushing installation. Antisieze on the new pin and where the rollers meet the shoes on both ends.

They get super stubborn because usually no one changes them during brake job. If you change them every brake reline they come out like butter.

 

PITA ones I just blow a hole straight through the middle with a torch. Usually that does the trick.

 

To add..... a 1 inch flapper wheel on a 90 cleans up the bore so the bushing fits good. If you drive the bushing into a rust filled hole, the pin will go in tight and you'll have it all to do over again. The goal is to push the pin in the bushing with your fingers with no slop.

 

It's always best to use the proper seal driver if you can beg, steel or barrow one. Sucks messing up a new seal or worse having to take it back apart for a leak.What seal brand, type? Aluminum or steel hub? Some of the unitized seals you can push in by hand with small amount of lube.