I guess I meant to say it should have a WLL much higher. I wonder why they rate it the way they do. The way those spools are sandwiched in there and as short as they are I am pretty sure you would break a 3/8" G70 chain before the spool gave way.
Adding D rings to a trailer
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by Bdog, Dec 19, 2015.
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This is how I would do them.
A little more work,but then their not in the way of the rub rail.
Chewy352, Al. Roper, johndeere4020 and 3 others Thank this. -
I like the first picture but I'm confused on the second picture. It doesn't look like there is much room to hook anything there. My eyes may be deceiving me.
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They pull up
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I see now. I like that idea. Those would be even less in the way then the first picture when it comes time to sweep off the deck.
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I like the looks of those D-Ring setups but just looking at them I still don't see how they would be any stronger than a pipe spool unless the pipe spools are made of some really thin material.
If you took a piece of 1.5" pipe that was 1/4" wall or so and only 2" long and securely welded it in-between two plates that would not give I bet you could wrap a sufficient chain around it and not hurt the pipe spool with 50,000 lb of force. It is just an inherently strong design. It makes me think that rating on them is not due to the spool it self but the channel itself twisting. If you weld the D-ring to the same channel you really have not gained anything. -
I can't see how those D-Rings are attached... I'm assuming they have a support spanning two of the cross beams (4" beams, or 3" channels?) underneath. If that is correct, they will be pretty stout. There is no twisting when you're pulling on them. If they are simply welded to a plate that covers the inside opening of the channel, you will get the same twisting of the channel when you load them. I wouldn't walk away from them... I would run.
A pipe spool mounted between the channel and rubrail will twist the center of the channel when too much force is put on it, assuming that nothing has been put on the inside of the channel to support it. A chain wrapped around a stake pocket spans a much larger piece of the channel, and will twist the whole channel itself, unless that stake pocket is centered on one of the cross beams (4" beams, or 3" channels?) to stop it from twisting.
You could easily mount a D-Ring on the outside of the channel, as long as the channel is supported inside to keep it from twisting.
All of this is assuming that you are not going to use that 110v harbor freight welder... If you're not a certified welder, I would highly recommend getting certified. It doesn't take long, and it doesn't cost much (at least it didn't 25 years ago!). A certification in itself doesn't mean much, but it will at least confirm to yourself, that you know what you're doing.Bdog Thanks this. -
I was crawling under my trailer yesterday and I may run something from crossbeam to crossbeam, cut a hole in the wood floor, and mount D-rings like in the photo. It wouldn't be to bad to do. The piece could be welded to both cross beams and also the channel on the side. Then the welding on the D-ring itself would be flat and easier than a horizontal weld like if they were wounded on the side. -
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I saw an ATS 53' stepdeck with sliding winches and "D - Rings" mounted on both side of the trailer. The d-rings and the winches alternate on the same slide rails. Pretty cool.
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