Just wanted to post up a short quick review on this radiator - anyone with a T600 & 500+ hp will definitely want to keep an eye on this thread. My truck was just overhauled and I had them put this new radiator in it. It's called a 4 core radiator but is technically a 3 core. Not 100% sure about the tanks and frame around it but the core is made in Philly, $1,350 + freight. They got my truck started for the first time this morning and got it up to operating temp checking for leaks. They left it idling at 1,400 rpms for over an hour, the fan never came on, and the water temp never went over 194* Now with the old stock 3 core radiator my temp would slowly rise up to 217* until the fan kicked on, if I let it go that high, I never let my water temp go over 204* without engaging the fan. Anyways, I was impressed by that. My coolant capacity with the stock radiator was 10 gallons. They put 12 gallons in with the new radiator and had to add another gallon after it purged air out of the system. I won't be getting loaded and rolling until tomorrow but I am positive this radiator is more than capable of keeping my motor cool. Anyone who's ever driven a T600 with a 550 that's as picky as me about keeping water temps below 200* will know what I'm talking about when I say I use the fan a lot. I'm positive my fan usage will go down significantly.
Active Radiator extreme heavy duty - T600 KW
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by rollin coal, Aug 14, 2012.
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Sweet!
You mean row not core though, like 3 row, 4 row.
The core is what's between the end tanks.
Just had to clarify. I might be OCD?! -
Right, right.. the rows in the core. I just always called it 3 "core" or 4 "core", guess that's not technically right - the rows are in the core - but no-ones ever called me out on it. Really anxious to try it out, like I say, anyone who's had a T600 will understand the frustration of the stock radiator with a big motor it's really aggravating and I can't wait to get hooked to a load...
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That is possibly the worst way to run a motor in.
Radiator sounds interesting though. -
I wasn't there when they first started it but I doubt seriously they just bumped it up to 1400 rpms right from the get go, but they may have I dunno... I do know they have a procedure on that but likely everyone has their own way or whatever. This was done by CAT and has a good warranty behind it so I'm really not worried about the motor at all. I know the wrench who built it and know it's right.
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It should be okay but you really have to load a motor to get a good seal between the rings and cylinders.
There really is not enough cylinder pressure at idle to do this.
After warm up you should maximum load at various RPM as much as you can for the first hour.
If you idle you risk glazing cylinders to some degree , oil usage and blow by on a new motor if really bad.
You really want the best seal possible at the start and you need to load the rings for this to happen. -
So basically put it under a loaded trailer and then go for a drive.
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Most advise maximum load but in short bursts of not more than 30 to 60 seconds for the first hour or so.
You then vary power between 50% and 100% at different RPM but as little idling as possible.
It is also a bit of a balancing act.
You can over heat the new rings and cause micro friction welds to the cylinders if you allow them to overheat.
That is the reason for only short bursts of max power and load for the first hour.
After the first 500 miles you can then revert to driving like a gentleman. -
So start up first time check oil pressure then go out for a interesting drive you say.
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Something like that.
At the production plants of engines they put the new motors on dyno's and load them maximum as soon as the heat starts picking up.
On some piston motor airplanes they even tow the plane to the runway so they can pull power shortly after start up after a rebuild.
They don't even want the few minutes of idle during the taxi to the runway.
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