A few more dump truck questions

I wonder if I would be best trying to figure out where to get a replacement cable just to make sure that is the culprit and get it going then change out to the air levers once it working.

How do you figure out what brand solenoid you have etc to match it up or is it universal?

 

Ok I have an update and luckily I didnt take that bet on the doughnuts because I would be buying dozens I'm pretty sure.

I spent the better part of today and this evening toying with my truck. The first things was to try to knock of what appears to be 17 years of dirt and grease on the bottom. I started with the degreaser and a brush just to be able to get to work on it some. After a few scrubings and hosings letting the ground dry and starting the process over I got it someone clean.

I first unhooked the cable that runs from the raise/hold/lower lever to the controls as instructed. I started at the hydraulic control under the truck leaving the other end connected to the lever in the cab. I first tried to move the lever in the cab with the other end unhooked from the controls and sure enough the raise/hold/lower lever still wouldnt budge. I then moved the hydraulic control back and forth with my hand and it moved with the cable unhooked. By the time I got the cable out it was too late to crank the truck up to raise the bed with me hand operating the control but I will play with it more day after tomorrow on my next day off.

So a big thanks to you all who help me get that sorted out as I'm not out of the woods with it yet but it looks much better as many said then being a major problem at this point.

I did have a few other questions while I'm waiting to get my hands on another cable for it.

The controls have not been operated in a while apparently. So I notice a pretty steady drip coming from the hydraulic controls. At first I thought it was a hose but after cleaning it witht he degreaser I'm pretty sure it is not. The hydraulic leak seems to be leaking in two places on the hydraulic control. The control is made by Buyer's. The first leak seems to be coming from the piston on the control that the cable connects to move back and forth. However the leak is not on the side of the piston that the cable coming from the cab connects to but on the other side of that piston. On that saide there is a cable that is looped and runs under the dump bed towards the back of the truck. Its leaking around the seal on the piston on that side that has the cable that runs to the back of the truck.

Then on the same control there is another leak that is leaking the hydraulic fluid from where the drive shaft from the PTO connects to the control. Where that knuckle from the shaft goes into the control its seeping hydraulic fluid. Now it may be that it had been moved and with me moving it back and forth it will reseal however I'm more than likely wishful thinking. If it is still linking which I expect does that control have to come out of the truck or can the seals be changed in the truck or does the control need a complete rebuild at that point?

My other question is I noticed that when they ran the air line from inside the cab to the PTO they didnt tie it up and the drive shaft from the PTO to the hydraulic control is beating it up to the point I think it may be leaking air. I plan to change it out just to do it right and make sure the line is good and tied up this time. When I put the PTO in the "IN" position I can hear the gears not grind but squeal as they go together. The same noise is made whether the truck is in Neutral or Drive. Remembering this truck is an Automatic, the guy who did the maintenance on the truck told me that to engage the PTO I should put the truck Drive then put the PTO in the IN position and then put the truck back in Neutral. This is not what I'm used to as I'm used to putting the PTO in the "IN" position while the truck is in Neutral and then once the PTO is in the IN position then putting the truck in Drive and leaving it in Drive while the PTO is enaged. So if anyone knows the absolute correct way please let me know. As an added note on the same topic I looked under the truck to see if when using any of the above methods to engage the PTO the drive shaft from the PTO to the hydraulic controls started to spin. At no time did the drive shaft ftom the PTO to the hydraulic control spin or turn. So as an added question is when is the shaft supposed to turn? IS it supposed to start spinning when the PTO is enaged or does it start to spin when the hydraulic control is actaully in use?

 

Thanks for the reponses all of you. I didnt get a chance until late tonight to put that new cable in and get it adjusted in place. It was again too late for me to crank the truck up and toy with it and Ill will be out of pocket for the next 24 hours before I know if I can get the PTO to engage. I will update and let you all know for sure what the end result is when I get to play with it Saturday.

I will say that now that the cable has been changed it allows me to move the hoist lever back in forth to the raise or lower positions and then place back in to the hold poistion. As you all know this was the original issue I was dealing with that has now been fixed. Hopefully I can get it sorted out with this PTO thing when I play with it more Saturday. I picked up some air connectors from the Heavy Truck supply near me to change out that air line that was beat up going to the PTO from the in cab pto switch. I read that that all conectors may not be DOT approved. These are a new type he said that you snap on and it seals and you can pull them off and reuse them. Exactly what connectors do I need to stay away from that are not approved by the DOT?

From what I can tell after my under carriage wash job I only have the hydraulic leaks that are seeping drips coming from a drive shaft seal and another one coming from the seal around the piston that connects to the cable I just replaced. Both leaks are on the control valve itself.

I will tinker with that later but I'm assuming that the seeping leaks are not the cause of my issues with the PTO not engaging. I'm 99% sure if I can get that PTO to engage I can get that bed to lower and drop. Once I can get it working properly I plan to switch out to air on the hoist control to avoid future issues with that cable.

I will post back Saturday when I have more progress to report.

 

Here is a pic on the bed lifted. I thank you all for helping out this rookie on this issue which I'm sure will be the first in a long list.

I obviously still have questions but right now just happy to see that dump bed in the air.

It ended up being the cable only. I have some leaks as I said before that need to be addressed but nothing major that I can see.

The correct way to engage the PTO on my automatic truck to lift the bed is as described before. Hopefully if anyone else with an automatic comes across this is will help them out. My truck does not have a Park on the tranny.

1. Pull the air brake so it is set to engage the truck brakes so the truck cannot move.
2. I put the truck in Drive.
3. Put the PTO to the "IN" Position.
4. Put the truck in Neutral.
5. Pull the air gate control to the open position.
6. Pull the Hoist lever to the raise position and raise and lower at will.

I assume the correct way to put the truck in regular drive position is to do disengage everything in the reverse of what is described.

Again thanks everyone and I'm sure I will be asking more questions very very soon.