A/C Problems

That green fluid is probably oil with dye in it., meaning the compressor is leaking. Get yourself a UV light and glasses, they're not expensive. Since you have dye in it already, you can look over everything and make sure that you have no other leaks.

We've had good luck wth Climatech and Airsource. The most imortant things are that the system is clean, had oil in it and the dryer is replaced. No matter what compressor you use, they will not warranty unless you changed the dryer too.

The orifice tube is in a line by the dryer. Look for small divots/crimps by a fitting. They crimp the pipe to act as a stopper for the tube. Then disconnect that fitting and the orifice tube slides out. They can be tough to get out sometimes, just take it easy so you don't break it. If the orifice filter is plugged up with debris, take it somewhere to have they system flushed.

 

Are you sure it isn't coolant?

 

The green fluid is PAG oil. That's what lubricates your compressor. If you're seeing it at the compressor, you need to check to see if the leak is at the hose fittings, or from within the compressor body. If the latter, a rebuild/replacement might be in order. If you're losing PAG, you're losing refrigerant, as well.
Have the system evacuated, replace the compressor and your receiver-drier. Before it gets recharged, a vacuum will be pulled for at least 15 minutes to ensure that you don't have leakage in the system. If the vacuum checks out, it's all good in the hood, and you can recharge the system.
If you don't get adequate cooling at that point, then you need some further diagnosis. First thing I would do is cut off coolant flow to the heater control valve... if your AC suddenly gets cold at that point, your heater control valve is tits up. If that's not it, then you need to get some manifold gauges and see what your pressure readings are. That does a lot to narrow down the issue.

 

You really wouldn't need a complete rebuild, but, with the mileage you have, it wouldn't hurt. That's a gasket.
On the receiver-drier note, I say that because you always want to replace it whenever you open up the system and introduce atmospheric air into it.... between the expansion valve outlet and the compressor inlet, the refrigerant will change state from a low pressure liquid to a low pressure vapor, and it's refrigerant in vapor form which goes into the compressor.. the receiver-drier contains a desiccant which traps liquid and ensures that only refrigerant in a vapor state moves on to the compressor... atmospheric air will fully saturate this desiccant in a matter of minutes and render it useless.

 

You might want to just change the compressor and drier to save time and know you are starting the summer with new parts. The rebuild could be tricky as there are a couple of seals behind the clutch that are tricky to get in exactly right if I recall. If you rebuild the area in your photo you still have an old clutch. The last Climatec I bought for my 2000 379 was about $225.00 about 2 years ago . The change out of the compressor took me about 2 hours including the drier. Definitely change the drier as all have said. Good luck. Zircon