well i just picked up this 92 international what appears to be an ex publix truck it has a all black m11 engine 310HP @1800 rpm with a mechanical FUEL PUMP??? i didnt know they made m11's wit ha mech pump. It has a 8spd spicer HD trans and intl 4.10 38k rears on air ride the truck was owed to me from a past deal about 2 years ago truck was running fine no fuel issues or acceleration issues at all.
i picked the truck up yesterday and drove it about 2-3 miles to my house the throttle would rev up like all old cummins engines do when they are low on fuel and suck up air or when the pumps go out. So it was real hard for me to get any gears in as the pump would do the reving B.S. I decided to pull of both fuel filters and change them the filter on the bottom of the pump wasnt in to bad of a condition had some crap in it but not alot, then i pulled off the other filter which is on the feed side of the system and has a water seperator clear twist off part of filter which you need to reuse and install on new filter so when i pull that filter apart and take off clear sight piece there was nothing but a gunky black grease looking crap in the bottom of the clear cap. i cleaned it out reinstalled new filters filled with clean diesel. I then procceded to inspect the inside of the fuel tanks which are METAL and they were both covered with the same black greasy looking crud all on the walls of the inside of fuel tank. So i then disocnnected the feed line at bottom of tank and ran feed to a clean new portable tank with clean diesel (5gal) thus disconnectiiong fuelk supply from both tanks. I did however leave the return line hooked up to the tank so the return was going back into the tank (would this give me an issue of sucking in air from there)?
I then turned on truck with basically new fuel ,fuel tank and filters and truck turned on quickly but got a little more responsive but pretty much the same old LAZY REV which stays dead reving. It doenst rev at the same pace as your foot its not very repsonsive and pretty lazy to rev. I was able to drive it a lil more but still not running right as it wont let me shift gears with the stupid reving it does.
On a side note on top of the pump one of the hard fuel lines was somewhat loose and i tightened them up and wiped them down no leaks there. Air filter was also real clogged so i left it out on restart as i will need a new air filter as well.
My question is is this pretty much the pump crapped out on me for all of the contamination it had in fuel? i khave pulled one off before and i know it has a bolt thats real hard to get to. Does anyone else have an idea of what might be going on here as my dad which is somewhat of an old timer is telling me that its the pump that the old mech cummins used to act the same way when the pump was going out????
My 2nd question is, is this a m11 specific pump? or will any cummins mechanical fuel pump work on here?
also i think turbo might be crapped to as the flange were turbo mounts to exhaust manifold is wet of oil , i noticed it has a small HOLSET turbo on it anyone know what model it might be as well as what other turbo might work in its place? it looks similar to the turbos on the old 24v 5.9 cummins is it? inlets and outlets looks just as small as the pickup ones. it smokes white on high acceleration or rev, i know i can check turbo by looking at rear exhaust behind downpipe and looking at turbo inlet for oil residue correct?
any help on htis would be great i need to get this truck working local for the old man help would be greatly apprecaited, dont knock the truck i just need it to make me some money locally.
on a good note truck doesnt leak oil,has good oil pressure when warm around 35-40 psi and engine temp at 170 with fan clutch on.
Just this stupid fuel issue, hopefully someone can tell me hell that what it is.....lol.
92' M11 mechanical pump???issues
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by flc120, Sep 6, 2012.
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L10 pump will work but u need to ring cummins to make sure 100%
U could have sludge in the lines between pump a injectors Or at the small filters that r on the injectors -
I would think the black crap in the tanks and filters etc are most likely asphaltenes coming out of the fuel when heated by engine and returned to the fuel tanks. Since you have near empty tanks now I would give them a thorough cleaning.
I would also consider replacing the fuel supply (suction) lines from the tank to the pump. You mentioned the fuel supply line coming off the bottom of the fuel tank. This is not a normal factory set up and will cause you problems. The tank should have a stand pipe in it to draw fuel by your supply line which connects to stand pipe at the top of the tank. Drawing off the bottom feeds your fuel system all the trash at the bottom of the tank and will also siphon fuel from your filters back to the tank when the engine is shut down.
Before you condemn the injection pump or turbo I would consider that this black gunk is in the pump and injectors and a good cleaning agent in the fuel will clean them up. Using a good fuel treatment is better than replacing high dollar parts. The air filter being plugged can cause oil seepage from the turbo seals and extended idling which could be the case can cause slobber and show oil at the turbo flange as well.
The poor throttle response could be addressed by adjusting the AFC on the injection pump which is fairly simple. Adjusting the AFC will make your throttle response instant, you'll think you're driving a different truck.
Although all the Cummins PT pumps are physically the same if you decide to replace it, use the engine CPL# to acquire the correct build pump for your engine or you can have your existing pump repaired. -
were is the screw to turn and how to adjust on this cummins pump?
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The screw is under the aluminum sheet metal cover held on by small rivets where the throttle shaft is on the pump. Remove the breakover arm from the throttle shaft, remove cover, you'll see allen head screw next to throttle shaft. Loosen jam nut on screw, back screw out anywhere from 1/4 turn to 1-/1/2 turns, tighten jam nut, reinstall cover and arm. Check for full throttle when done, arm should break over on linkage with the throttle pedal on the floor (wide open throttle). Backing out the AFC eliminates the need for boost before the pump fuels the injector rail so it will smoke the more you back the screw out. Once you go past a full turn of the screw there is little or no fuel delay.
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"Before you condemn the injection pump or turbo I would consider that this black gunk is in the pump and injectors and a good cleaning agent in the fuel will clean them up. Using a good fuel treatment is better than replacing high dollar parts. The air filter being plugged can cause oil seepage from the turbo seals and extended idling which could be the case can cause slobber and show oil at the turbo flange as well"
what would you suggest i use to run in the fuel to clean out pump and injectors? Trans FLUID????Do you think running some type of cleaner would seriously help the pump out? right now its running clean good fresh diesel. I am going to go out and try messing with the AFC on the fuel pum pto see if it gets any responsive.
I plan on pulling off at least one tank and cutting it open to have it cleaned out , the stuff looks bad i dont know how to clean without opening this puppy up plus its STEEL not ALUMINUM ive always done this to my alum fuel tanks cut them open to clean them up right. Is there a way to get it clean with just degreaser and a pressure cleaner, theres still going to be parts of the tank were the pressur cleaner wont get to... -
allright i just pulled off thecover and found nothing about what your talking about as it has an adjustmnent but for WIDE OPEN THROTTLE unless i am wrong the only adjustment on my pump that can be made when that tin cover is pulled off is the amount of travel till FULL THROTTLE so how does that have to do with the AFC???
i saw an allen head screw mounted onto a solid block looking thing that goes mounted on the splined thorttle shaft coming out of the pump, thats all i saw there and the adjustment for full throttle please help as i have truck taken apart now??? -
Automatic trans fluid might work or an injector cleaner. I just steam clean the tanks and use steam cleaner soap, never opened one up to clean it.
The AFC adjustment would be just above the throttle shaft. If it isn't there, they eliminated it (EPA) so you can't play with it. -
No adjustment for the no air on the later pumps. Dual spring afc has two screws in the afc cover. You must remove the pump to access. Don't mess with the throttle stops. Nothing to gain there.
bender Thanks this. -
so theres nothing i can do to pump to make it get rid of the LAZY PUMP FEELING THEN????
dam i took this tin plate cover off for fun?? Is there anything to do, to pump to try to make it run better, or am i stuck with pulling off the pump regardless???
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