I've never had much luck with mine checking that way, twice I've had the freon pulled out, measured pulled a good vacuum and the correct amount 5 lbs for mine put back in.
Yesterday at 95' and humid as hell after a couple hours on recirc it was blowing 48' and still dropping on my temp gun.
379 pete a/c problems
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by bean farms, Jun 6, 2011.
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After you get your A/C fixed cover your A/C lines from the compresses to where they go into the firewall.
The last pic was taken on a 107 degree day in Laredo.......35 degrees out the ventAttached Files:
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how much diffrence did it make on your truck after u covered all your lines up what kind of pressures you runin on your truck
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I was a little low after my ac prob so I had our mech check mine today, when he got done it was at 35 and 295.
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That just got bumped to the top of my list...great idea.blade Thanks this. -
You may be overlooking one important thing: your evaporator could be packed full of dirt, trash, etc. ESPECIALLY. if the truck has been used on the farm or grain hauling. The little cab air filter won't keep everything out of there. Peek in through the filter opening and see if you can see if the evaporator core is dirty or not. The truck is a '96, so chances are it needs pulled and thoroughly cleaned.
blade Thanks this. -
What's a good source for that insulation? My auto parts store doesn't carry it, I've seen others do that and would like to try it.
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Hi beans
a couple of things there are many other things but these are simple to check.
The evap coil could be dirty (smoking, dust, deoderaunts ect) this would cause it not to absorb heat the best way is to take temp of in and out air it should have a delta diff. of about 25 to 30 degrees.
Second is air control baffel diverting all air to cold deck or is some of the air going to hot deck(heater coil) this is usely caused by operator cable or air control switch not opening or closeing all the way. also is the fan wheel (s) clean no cig papers or what not this whould cause the coil to get too cold and then shut the gas off to the metering device thus ice on coil and then no air or heat exchange this is the bottom line a/c works on heat exchange principle no exchange or convayance of heat (thru freon taxi) no cooling
best regards -
insulation is a good thing on low side line they call it armor flex and can be bought at a/c house anthother good prod. is armour flex tape the trick is to make it it ar tight so it dont let wet air in and freeze
cooling works as the humidity goes up up the system has to work harder because it has to absorb the heat out (latent heat removal) of the air vapor first and convert it to condensate then the system can do sensible cooling (the cooling that we can feel)MasonA10 Thanks this. -
It changed mine 8~10 degrees out the vent. Was in thr mid 40"s now it stays in the mid to upper 30's. Dont really know what the psi is, never had a set of professional type A/C gauges hooked up to it. What I have used id the cans of freon that come with a gauge that is color coded White Blue yellow Red and they have numbers to but I cant remember what they are. But mine will cycle all most to the yellow line, fan kicks on and it goes down to just inside the white and the fan kicks off. Thats about the best I can help you with that.
Lowe's is where I got mine. Alum covered bubble wrap. Comes in a 2' x 25' roll and alum HAVC duck tape. Just cut it to fit your lines from the compressor to were they go into the firewall. I left the bottom of the dyer uncovered because it will still sweat.
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