3406E injector cups

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Gumper, Jun 26, 2018.

  1. Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    Started getting some fuel in my coolant which along with the smoke haze at idle leads me to believe one of the cups, or o-rings on them has gone bad. Was going to change them all out myself since parts and tools are about $600, and it looks fairly simple. I can do an overhead while I’m at it.

    What I believe it need is:
    Cups/sleeves
    O-rings for each
    Retaining compound
    Valve cover gaskets
    Sleeve removal tool
    Injector height tool

    Anything else?
     
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  3. maggard359

    maggard359 Medium Load Member

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    You can make the tool to remove the cup I believe it’s a 1” or 1 1/8” threaded rod and make like a slide hammer type tool. The cup is threaded on the inside you can thread the rod into it and slide hammer up and pop it out. If you have a set of calipers a long roofing nail with a big head will work for the injector tool measure it off at 3.07” and file down flat until it gets there. Crude but works for the poor folks. The retaining compound only gets used below the lowest oring on the cup, not the orings, not the head, or any other part of the cup. Clean oil on orings. They make a compound also that is the technical lube for the orings on injectors but I don’t use that myself. It’s a 50/50 mixture of the compound and clean oil. Myself, clean oil is sufficient. Injector hold down bolts are recommended to be replaced when removed. If you never rebuilt Jakes it would be a good time to do that not real expensive just a little extra time. Barring tool makes pinning the flywheel a lot easier by yourself. It’s J38587a for that part number.
     
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  4. DieselTech_Aus

    DieselTech_Aus Light Load Member

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    fuel in coolant is top injector sleeve seals. bottom sleeve seal failure pressurizes the cooling system.
    typically it is just the seal not the sleeve so you could save a dollar by just replacing seals.

    generally if the head is cracked it comes from the face inside the cylinder between the valves. the crack grows until it reaches the coolant gallery around the injector sleeve. most times you'll notice coolant entry, hard starting, hydraulic lock on morning start and white smoke on start up with a sweet smell. I think its a safe bet your head should be OK.

    you'll need

    sleeve seals 6x 1662903 seal 6x 1662904 seal 6x 9X7430 seal
    sleeves if you wish 6x 2274239 sleeve
    injector seals 6x 2481394 seal kit
    oil can
    retaining compound
    valve cover seals if you wish 3x 2429537 seal
    injector hold down bolts if you wish 6x 8S9191
    sleeve removal tool (important for square install so no pinched seals. it has a guide dolly) 9U6891
    turning tool (or front pulley bolts and a bar) 9S9082
    injector height tool (or use verniers, 78mm) 9U7227
     
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  5. Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    I’m actually half way through the job as we speak. Had to make a run to the Cat store 150 miles away before going back together because several of the injector o-rings were broken. Some of the sleeve o-rings had failed as well. Put together a tool with some 1” and 3/4” pipe to pull the sleeves out.

    The retaining compound ONLY goes below the small lower o-ring?
     
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  6. DieselTech_Aus

    DieselTech_Aus Light Load Member

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    make sure all 3 injector orings are replaced and they aren't rolled. use vaso or clean oil to lube just prior to installation. use a ratchet to pull the bolt down by hand so you can feel that the orings aren't pinching as it goes it. then torque hold down bolt to 40lb/ft.

    youll also need to do a full value set after you re fit the rocker gear.
     
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  7. Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    I put all 3 new o-rings on each injector. I won’t cheap out on that stuff because I don’t want to do this again soon.

    What are the rocker bolt torque specs, and what sequence do I follow when doing their adjustment? I’m sure I could figure it out when I roll the crack over, but I may as well ask.
     
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  8. DieselTech_Aus

    DieselTech_Aus Light Load Member

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    1. Tighten center bolts (2) to a torque of 54 N·m (40 lb ft).

    1. Tighten nut (3) to a torque of 54 N·m (40 lb ft).
    2. Tighten outer bolts (1) to a torque of 54 N·m (40 lb ft).
    1. Tighten center bolts (2) to a torque of 109 N·m (80 lb ft).
    1. Tighten nut (3) to a torque of 109 N·m (80 lb ft).
    1. Tighten outer bolts (1) to a torque of 109 N·m (80 lb ft).
    personally I torque to 100ft lbs.

    valve set.... back your jakes off before you start the valve set and then set them after you set their respective exhaust valve. inlet 0.015' exhaust 0.030' 340A/B/C jake 0.033' 340D jake 0.027"

    number 1 piston at TDC compression (camshaft lined up)
    inlet 1,2,4
    exhaust 1,3,5
    injector 6,5,3

    number 1 piston at TDC exhaust (camshaft 180 out)
    inlet 6,5,3
    exhaust 6,4,2
    injector 1,2,4
     
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  9. Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    I used Simple Green to flush the diesel out of the cooling system. Will it hurt anything (eat the retaining compound) to let the Simple Green solution sit in the cooling system over the weekend? Have other things to do, and would rather finish flushing it Sunday night.
     
  10. Gumper

    Gumper Road Train Member

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    Mission accomplished. No more idle smoke. Flushed the cooling system 4 times to get the diesel out. Truck fired right up after sitting all the weekend instead of cranking over several times. Job took me 8 hours not counting the extra radiator flushing. Cost me about $500 for all the parts, tools and fluids. Probably saved $1000 in labor.
     
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