Yes hold it wide open. Full rack, full throttle what ever you wanna call it.
Screw them out a bit maybe ten turns. If you screw them all the way out no problem as long as you don't drop 'em! Just screw them back in. You will feel the screw hit the rack block just trust me. There ain't no other way to explain it. Same with the torque screw.
Before you start make sure the throttle linkage is adjusted right so you have full rack travel. You need break over at the lever there on the side of the pump that linkage is attached to. Pull it full throttle and you'll feel it stop and then there should be a little bit more pull left that pulls the top piece of the lever. You see the spring on the side lever there and feel it's pressure then.
You probably don't need to worry about the filter thing right now unless you are running to CAT to pick up all the parts.
On AFRC yes you take out the long bolts.
Once you remove the AFRC you'll see where the o-rings go. They are the same with or without.
3406b pump mod help!!
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by flc120, Aug 14, 2012.
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gotcha on the full rack lol, as well on the adjustments of the screws i figured there was a way to reset them, this way i am intially putting adjustments of the set screws right at the tip begining of when it starts to make pressure on the rack blocks. Would it be then choking the motor up if they were turned all the way in correct (NO FUEL).
so it doesnt matter if i change the o-rings out or not? just pull off the AFRC and cap it off with a plate im am guessing what im doing here is just removing the valve (governor) out of the back of the pump and its full flow? no regulation of fuel? -
also when capping off the AFRC essentially deleting it, is there any pressure of fuel in that area or the pump or oil? will it suck in air from this point into the fuel system?i
will get the parts from cat actually to do filter mod its actually 3miles from where i live so its no biggy, but the parts needed where listed in that link you posted?
and i forgot to add THANKS for the reset help theres alot of knowledgable people up on this board as with any well setup forum. -
so from this list of parts i dont need nothing but to take off AFRC and cap it i dont need any of this?
Parts list for AFRC cover.
8N-3799 cover
(2) 5B-7040 (1/4-20 X 1'') or 5P-6935 and 5P-0537 washers like I did, which are
the same ones in the small AFRC cover.
4J-7533 Seal o-ring (for plug below) instead of 5/16x24 bolt as stated in
earlier posts)
9S-4180 plug
8M-8515 seal o-ring
5P-6620 seal o-ring
300-5879 seal o-ring
8J-8343 seal o-ring -
i just called CAT dealer #### they want $60 for the AFRC cover 8N-3799 cover
i cant just block it off with a thick piece of sheet metal? -
I quote myself "You'll need the big yellow o-ring and the smaller 3 ones and a 5/16 Dia X 3/8 L X 24 tpi bolt to plug a oil port on the lower end, block side of it. And a 1/8" NPT plug to plug the intake manifold line hole. Use the short 2 old adjustment cover bolts to install the new cover."
The bolt will go in the bottom of the new cover. There's a hole there for IDK what. Parts guy can tell you what O-ring part nos. are, they are all the same on B and C AFRC. I am not responsible for what others have added to my post.
I'd say use the CAT piece and new o-rings or don't bother. I'd never consider making my own cover as cheap as they are.
Go to a TEPS (KW, Pete, F-liner, etc) dealer and they will always beat price from CAT house. You might have to wait a day or two until a rarely used part like that arrives as I doubt a truck dealer would stock it. -
If you turn in the fuel & torque screws after you get them set this way for max rack, be careful to turn them each exactly the same amount of turns. I think 6,7 or 8 turns back in and you'd have a kitten instead of a CAT.
What you are doing setting screws this way is basically starting at the end. The end of rack travel is full fuel. The screws turn in to decrease rack travel. The rack is just like rack and pinion steering. It's just a rod with teeth on one side which turns the gear on each plunger which determines the scroll position and how much fuel goes to the nozzle versus gets dumped out the spill port. The plungers always go full travel by the pump cam. You need to see diagrams to get a good idea of it.Last edited: Aug 16, 2012
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real good info, im going to reset fuel screws as you stated. and then i will order AFRC delete cover and o-rings and will report back once they have been ordered.
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what are the part numbers for the large yellow o-ring and 3 smaller ones?
and do you remember paying $60 for the AFRC delete cover? -
i wish there was some sort of pic of the AFRC and inside components, so i can understand what i am capping and what i am re oringing.. why cant the oil fill port just be capped off with bolt like stated and cap off afrc and call it a day?
is the complete AFRC housing coming off the pump?and everything staying inside the part that comes off?
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