I just got a 91 Freightliner with an NTC 300 Big cam. Runs really good, barely leaks any oil and enough power for what I need. Question is, what type of coolant should I be using? A friend of mine says i need to be putting additive in it to save the liners, but is that the best option? Are there other types of coolant that are better than the green thats in it now that will be better for the liners?
300 Big Cam Coolant Type
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Schnot, Jan 9, 2017.
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The purple stuff. Use to called NaCool. Someone bought them out and changed the name. But it's still around
Schnot Thanks this. -
When your 300 was newer green was the thing. Additives like NalCool could be added as a liquid or were included in some coolant filters. Filters ending in 71 have a one unit charge equal to one pint of liquid. 72's have two units. 74's are a precharge filter with four units is for treating a new system fill.
One company I worked for used a WF2071 about every 17,500 miles and never checked anything. Changed coolant every 200,000.
Some others went by test strips, treated accordingly and only changed when a pump went out if ever.
I don't like to mix brands, Ol Blue has whats left of a case of Liquid Perry in the side box. Use Fram's stuff in everything else liquid, good supplier and my 1987 Cummings has Rotella ELC with a new water pump.
The ELC coolants are superior but I lost some water pumps when I started changing over with the one coolant goal. Cause or not I only change coolant types with a water pump anymore.
Most importantly correct additive balance is very important to those engines! Do not skimp on it.
While we are on the subject does anyone have knowledge of or a link to explain these new coolants. They are so varied and confusing depending on who I talk to. However I have found when it looks like poop and is slimmed up on the radiator cap it works good for weight in tractor tires.Last edited: Jan 10, 2017
Schnot and Diesel Dave Thank this. -
Great info. So I should just keep running the green and change those filters often? I put a baldwin BW5071 on it when I got it.
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You can buy individual test strips to see where you are once or twice a year. Don't stock up on them, they go bad. If it's very low pore in a bottle of Baldwin stuff. If it,s high don,t change the filter for an extended period. Often? Usually about every 15,000 miles or 250 hours.
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I run green Walmart stuff with a plain water filter 2077 never had a problem
Last edited: Jan 11, 2017
Reason for edit: wrong filter # -
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I don't use any additives in any motor never had a problem ive had all the colors of motors but right now I have a green motor
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I am glad for you having success that way but will share some of my experience otherwise. Two companies I got some checks from were Ruan Leasing and Watkins Motor Lines.
Ruan Leasing had about 15,000 trucks and operated out of that 33 story building in Des Moines. Sole proprietorship that did not have to list other enterprises and overseas interest, a lot more trucks. They had a NTC with cavitation erosion or electrolysis if you will which caused a hole in a liner. The truck had just over 100,000 miles and Cummins would not warranty it due to lack of maintenance. Ended up the shop manager thought the company filter change program was BS and was saving the $4.00 every service. When Mr John was no longer in control that division was absorbed into the Ryder empire.
Watkins Motor Lines had a truck with the same failure and a denied warranty claim. Their response to that was a spot on the PM sheet with test strip results and staple the test strip to the inspection sheet. Maintenance records from the beginning. That division is now part of Fed Ex Freight. -
Go to napa and get their fleet charge coolant. Has the additives in it already . Get it pre mixed or straight and mix it yourself with distilled water. Done and done right.
BoxCarKidd Thanks this.
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