My dad has a 2010 Kenworth t800 tractor with the cummins 600 isk engine. Recently it has started losing power. It's been to the dealer a handful of times with no real help. Sometimes it runs great, could be for a day, half a day, or just an hour. Then it starts to lose power. It won't turn up the RPMs like it should. It starts out only going up to 1600rpm, then around 45mph the RPMs start to drop off and it can't even pull a load. If it is parked it might run fine in the morning or it might not. It's not showing any codes. Changed fuel filters, no change. Checked the air temp/turbo boost sensor and saw it was gummed up. Cleaned the sensor and it ran good for 2 days, then started acting up again. Replaced the sensor with a new one which didn't change anything. That's where we're at right now. Just wondering if anyone has ran into something similar and might have a lead for what to look into next. Thanks.
2010 t800 losing power
Discussion in 'Kenworth Forum' started by doops22, Jan 19, 2012.
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Coolant lose is probably gonna be the egr cooler.
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Make sure you check the Exhaust gas pressure sensor as well. ( near the upper rad hose stickin straight up in the air ...They have been known to corrode and not log any faults requiring replacement of the sensor and pigtail...this sensor can create alot of havoc with many issues on the engine..
if there is excessive carboning in the intake system it can be caused by a leaking egr cooler,, blocking the cooler ,gumming up sensors and the egr valve itself and not letting it close hence loosing boost.. there is also some ecm calibrations that help with this issue.
cleaning the intake boost/temp sensor can be a temp fix. its cheap enough i would recommend to replace it rather than cleaning for future reference.
Other than that its posible the VGT is sticking, however usually the vgt and or egr will also cause regen issues and face plugging of the catalyst.. -
thanks kaptainkenworth! I'll look into that stuff. what are the ecm calibrations that would help with the egr? probably something the dealer would have to flash?
we did replace the boost/temp sensor after we cleaned it. the new sensor didn't help any.. -
yes typically only cummins or an OEM dealer should flash the ecm.. make sure they are taking the file of of cummins website rather than discs. that way you are getting the latest and greatest file.. there are some really good files that can affect power/economy and regen issues.. cummins has come out with many fixes for bugs on a monthly basis... that eng may actually have an outstading calibration recall.. if you give me your eng S/N i could check for ya..
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I was just talking with my dad about what you said about the ecm calibrations and he said that the kenworth dealer just did an updated flash on it right around the time this started happening. it was down there for a transmission yolk issue and when he picked it up they said that since they had it they went ahead and reflashed it. he doesn't know what the update was for, if it was off of a Cd or the website or what. I told him to find out more about it Monday.
the last time the dealer had it was running good. the tech had it plugged in and the throttle position went up to 100% like it should. the driver left with it and a couple miles down the road it started acting up. he brought it back and the tech plugged it in and the throttle position would only go to 50-70% . the dealer called my dad today and told him that it had to be the way the driver is pushing the throttle.... needless to say he wasn't to happy about that. you think the random 70% throttle could be related to the new updated tune they flashed or a tps going out or what?
just curious do you work at a kenworth or cummins dealer? I'm gonna try to get the engine sn for you tomorrow. there is a Cummins dealer near the kenworth dealer that were dealing with. thinking about taking it over there.
sorry for the real long post, just trying to get all the information that I can. thanks again.for all the help man. -
Typically the only issue with TPS will be the trottle not fully returning affecting the jakes and cruise ( its a quick fix by shaving down the plastic stop in the assembly)
After what you mentioned in your last post about the yoke, it sounds like you are loosing Vehicle speed signal..
The engine ( depending on how the parameters are set up will derate to 1600 rpm) If you have a faulty veh speed sensor ,connection or rubbed wires , it will loose its signal.. have a close look at the sensor and wiring ( twisted Blue pair ).. also you can have the parameters adjusted for "max veh speed without Vss"to 2100 and "vss anti tampering" to high. if you loose signal it wont derate anymore.. it may not be logging codes because the fault isnt staying active for long enough to log..
The calibration they installed was probably "C110 campaign".. it was a very important flash for that engine.
I am pretty confident you will find your problem in the VSS circuit....Keep me posted on your progress... good luckdoops22 Thanks this. -
that makes sense. that's actually what it was doing the first time we brought it down. you could move the yolk with your hand so we figured the bearing was bad and the wobble was messing with the vss. they told us that the bearing was good, and that they just tightened down the yolk. my dad is out hauling a load of choose to the mill now to see how its acting. I'm heading up to the shop when he gets back and ill take a look at the wiring and connections. ill let you know what I find!
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there is an updated output nut,if it was loose or removed it should be replaced with a new one. it may have backed off again,. a loose yoke can also cause these symptoms as the tone wheel can spin.
doops22 Thanks this. -
I dug out the paper work from the visit when the kenworth dealer did the reflash, and it was indeed C1110 campaign. We're not sure if they replaced the output nut or not. The truck is going back down to the dealership wednesday for an issue with the high side of the transmission. We've fixed similar issues with other trucks, but figure since its under warranty we'd bring it down and let them deal with it...
We're going to have them check out the vss, connections, and wiring. We're also going to have them bump the "max veh speed without Vss"to 2100 and "vss anti tampering" to high, as you suggested. That way the dealership tech should either find a problem with the vss, wiring etc. And if they don't, we can rule that circuit out if it does act up again. Sound like a good idea?
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