No heat in cab. No cut-off valves. No heater control valve. One supply line runs from pipe off of lower radiator pipe and the other from a fitting off the back of water pump.
Truck is getting up to about 180 degrees on gauge.
I checked the blend door and it is working ok.
I checked to make sure I could blow through the hoses and even moved them from being supplied off the top of oil cooler.
I replaced the heater core and filled the core and lines with water after installing.
Ran the truck up to temp and bled the pipe on top of the top radiator pipe.
Still not heat.
I was thinking of getting a piece of clear 3/4 hose to see if water is flowing but all I had at the shop on Sunday is as hard as a brick.
Suggestions?
2003 Freightliner Columbia No Heat
Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by Smellfunny, Jan 30, 2022.
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If it is a Series 60, have had more than a few with slipping impellers on the water pump. Unfortunately only way to know for sure is to remove and inspect.
nikmirbre, Rideandrepair and Smellfunny Thank this. -
Rideandrepair and Smellfunny Thank this.
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Same here. Impeller turns just enough to keep it from overheating. When my 12.7 did it, I remembered my 65 Dodge slant six, as a teenager. Froze all winter, changed heater core, thermostats. I finally figured it out, in the springtime.
QUALITYTRUCK and Smellfunny Thank this. -
Well got the pump off just now and put a crow foot pry bar and spun the gear and the impeller is not loose. Went ahead and put a new water pump on just in case it was slipping from time to time. Filled it back up with coolant. Ran truck up to 200 degrees. No Heat...
Drained the coolant and ran the heater hoses back the way they were to begin with and filled with coolant and still no heat. One hose feels warm and the other feels hotter. Checked the blend door again and it is moving and no matter which way I move it it is still cool. -
Sorry it is a series 60 12.7. Can't believe I left that out.
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Have you tried running it straight through, without adj valve? I mean, connect the hoses straight to the core outlets.
But: first connect the heater hoses together with any type of hose connector, just to have the coolant circling within. If they are both hot, you have the circulation. Then try the core, no go, find another one. If go, connect valve. Something like that, just eliminate one point at a time.
PS: use locking pliers to squeeze the hoses, so there is no need to dump the coolant all the time.Smellfunny Thanks this. -
The hoses go directly to the heater core. No cutoff valves or control valve. After I installed the water pump where the old heater hoses were connected I had just made a loop with heater hose when I removed it and that hose was really hot so I figured I would just hook the heater hoses to the core back to that location and perhaps have heat. Nope.
The heater core is new. -
If the loop is hot and core is not, then there is an obstacle in there, try air it, if pressure goes through it. Otherwise, have no idea, other than any different core to try.
Smellfunny Thanks this. -
I even removed the lines and poured water into the line and blew that into the core and could hear it bubbling in the coolant tank.Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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