Replacing radiator decided to try and figure out why the fan clutch won't disengage. A stud spun in the hub and the seals were bad so put a new one on. The fan solenoide is only getting 6.9v which is what the ECM is putting out at pin 5 on the ECM actuater connector. Cummins shows signal going to a chassis connector then to a relay and back to pin42 at the ECM act connector. Cummins also shows another #2 fan relay but I haven't been able to find either of them. Volvo elect panel dosen't show or list a fan relay. Also the only way to kill the voltage to the fan clutch solenoide is to disconnect the 2 ECM wires at the batteries. I've pulled every fuse and relay I could find and have found none related to the fan clutch. A Volvo tec loaned me an APADS unit to check mine and it made no differance. The Volve shop supervisor said the ECM only puts out 6-7v so would anybody here now where the fan clutch gets the 12 volts it needs?
2000 Volvo VN w/ISM Fan Clutch
Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by Helsasser, Apr 7, 2015.
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first of all, what engine?
N14 ore ISX with CM570 ECM
If u hav N14 C7 pin is used to disengage fan clutch.
B05 B42 - ISX CM570. Ok, I think U have CM570 ECM.
42 is interna ground wire, it fails rarelly, but pin 5 is powered with SMD MOSFET + resistor for current monitoring (fault monitoring).
If u have low output voltage this small circuit is damaged. To repare it u have to open ECM and it is not easy, becouse u have to bent it and it is easy to damege it beyoung repare! so look for electronic shop! I used to fix ISX ECMs for different reasons and I warn you to be careful working on it!
Other way - to use auxilary outputs, but u need calterm to program outputs for temperature control.
Not sure about CM570, but newer ECMs are 2 speed fan ready and u can change fan type to 2 speed and use other outputHelsasser Thanks this. -
Yes Pablo it is an ISM w/CM570. I not really a wiz at this eletrical stuff. After spending hours tracing wires checking this and that. I attached my volt meter to the solenoide feed connecter and started the engine. The volt meter was reading 6.7v as it was cranking it jumped to 13.5 and then dropped back to 6.8v after the engine started for 5-6 sec it jumed back to 13.5v and stayed there. I unhooked the meter and pluged the connecters together and the clutch started to work. I don't understand why there is voltage at the connecter when the key is off. I'm pretty sure they are using the ground as the switch wire but there has to be a drain on the batteries with the key off. There still could be something going on in the ECM but if it stays working I'm not going to mess with it. If it quits I'll send it off I'm not going to open it up. Still haven't found any relays controling this may not be any maybe all in the ECM. Thanks for your imput Pablo.
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this is test voltage, to detect broken wires
Helsasser Thanks this. -
Radiator is in and no leaks. Fan clutch is working as it should. But have one more issue, Engine fluid light is on with it's irritating beeper. Antifreeze is full as is the engine oil. There is no sensor in the radiator or cooling system. Engine has run for over 3 hours and drove it 70 miles yesturday. The engine dosen't shut down,temp is 185-190 and oil pressure is 40-45. I have disconected the battries twice to reset the ECM. Any advice on How to turn off the Engine Fluids light and beeper???
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First of all, u have to use insite and VCADs to find for what reason light is on?
Really Volvo has coolant level unit that connected to EMS. It is marked as A54.Attached Files:
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Hello Pablo, I looked all over the engine and found no other sensors then the one in the thermostat housung and two in the intake. there are 3 pig tails at the oil pan on the left side but know where to plug them in. And no sensors in the radiator or over flow tank. So I have know idea what set it off if there is nothing there to sence anything. I"m gonna try and get in to a Volvo dealer tommorow. Thanks again.
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as I remember it is near radiator
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