Hi All.
I am new to the forum,but have been lurking for a good while now ,am finding alot of good info on here.Thanks. So I figured I'd ask you what you think of this truck.1990 peterbilt 379 with cummins big cam 4 originally had 444 but was replaced with this engine in 1994,622.000 k on truck and supposedly 200.000 on motor. 13 sp 12/38 4;11 10 brand new virgin rubber headache rack,needs a good cleaning and some cosmetics,radiator is good but will need to be replaced in near future underneith has been powerwashed so everything is clean, but there was an oil leak at some time in it's life as I saw some sludge that may or maynot have been from the old engine.( they missed it with the power washer} Starts right up and sounds good shifts good and is real tight for such an old truck It would be my first truck, used to pull flatbed regional or possibly long haul
(truck was used to pull low boy}.And yes I do do know how to turn a wrench ,Not a mechanic but been fixin my own stuff for 30 yrs been driving truck for 25 and have been working at a diesel repair shop driving heavy wrecker for the last 7 yrs so I am no stranger to greasy hands.lol anyway price of truck is 6k thanks in advance.
1990 pete 379 yes/no
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by yotaman, Sep 3, 2011.
Page 1 of 4
-
Attached Files:
-
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
-
622 000 km on the 1990?thats about 28 000 kms a year, I do 40 000 on my diesel golf a year just driving to work. Sounds weird. it is not a new truck but definitely not a new truck price.
Check the oil in the diffs and tranny if there is any metal shavings, just let drain a little of the drain plug.
Warm up the engine and pull oil stick out. If a smoke is coming out the engine is worn. Truck might be cheap, but repairs bills will be costly. Usualy two arms, two legs and half of di*ck. So, if you don't have at least 20-25 grand on side don't buy it. All truck break, all need maintenance.yotaman Thanks this. -
I would jump on that one for 6k- if it gives you a year's service, it paid for itself. You've got the know how to keep it rolling for a year and you know how to drive it gently, go for it!
-
Go for it, looks exactly like what I want to pick up in a couple of years.
yotaman Thanks this. -
forgot to mention, 94 engine is reman.
-
Is the reman verifiable? I'm always skeptical when people have no records of things like that. Hard to say it isn't a good deal regardless though. I got a similar deal on my '83 359 but have since put a tranny and differential in it as well as countless other little repairs and I only run it locally. Just go over it with a fine tooth comb before you go to work and maybe keep it close to home until you get to know it better. I'm guessing whatever was leaking probably still is, can't fix that with a pressure washer. All that fluid came from somewhere, check fluid levels early and often on EVERYTHING, prevention is always cheaper than replacement.
yotaman Thanks this. -
It's a cheap enough truck. But, you're really gonna have to drive it right or the fuel mileage will doom you from the start.
Get a good light and spend plenty of time under it checking out the frame. Good luck with it - you can make it work. -
thanks for the opinions. And yes wildcat I was shown paperwork on the reman ,plus it is stamped on the engine.frame is also very clean,very little to no rust on the truck.
-
If the paperwork isn't available you could get the serial number off the enigne and go to a Cummins dealer and have them check it for you. If the over haul was done at a Cummins dealer then they will be able to pull it up on the history. The engine block would be worth what they are asking. You can do a dyno and oil sample for about $200-400. That should tell you the current condition of the engine.
yotaman Thanks this. -
1. This is a 20 yr old truck. Don't matter one #### that it's a Pete that may have been top of the line in it's day. That was then, this is now. First thing you better be thinking is that this truck has at least a million miles on it. That's a million miles of stresses and strains that can weaken and wear joints, welds, bolts and rivets, bushings, bearings, mounting points and a hundred other little things that can add up to a big chunk of change and/or leave you sitting on the side of the road at best; in the willywags on your side at worst. Think about this.
I'm a bit skeptical of 600k in 20 yrs and 200K since 94 claim. That's only 10,500 miles per year in the last 19 years. That's less than a thousand miles per month,less than 250 miles per week. Is this supposed to have been a working truck? Working at what? Where? Again....think about this.
2. Engine, drivetrain: Big alarm bells going off here. Why exactly did the previous owner swap out a 444 for a less powerful 400? Makes no sense unless he scattered the red top and got the big cam cheap used or out of a wreck or something. Reman engine? I doubt it, here's why. He coulda got a reman 444 for roughly the same price and not had the costs that go along with swapping in a totally different engine. Both being Cummins engines has no bearing, they are completely different engines. Kinda like having a cherry big block Impala and swapping in a little 283. Both Chevvy, both good engines but requires changing a whole mess of brackets, hoses, wiring, etc, etc. You get my drift?
Now I've known guys who just hated the Red Top, but not one who would go to this extreme and expense on just a whim.
The rest of your drivetrain is specced pretty good for hauling heavy in hilly country. 13 overdrive and 4:10 was pretty much standard up home in Eastern Canada where we hauled tri-axle grossing 110K or better daily with grades averaging 8 to 10 percent. BUT, even with 24 inch rubber you're gonna be doing around 2000 rpm at 60 to 65 mph at an average of 4mpg. That's gonna eat your lunch down here on the interstates with the smaller American gallon and current prices.
Now, I've looked at your level of experience and you may have already thought of all this. But some of our other "readers" may not have, so this is partly for them.
In your case this is what I would do:
Buy the truck (hell, you can part it out and get your 6K back), but I would not go putting it on the road right away. Keep your present job and park the Pete until you can go through it with a fine tooth comb. Look closely at everything, especially all the suspension bushings, etc,etc. Include replacing all hoses (airlines, fluid hoses), check close on electrical. All the small stuff that can nickle and dime you to death. Replace the rad now before you go out there. Likewise batteries and the like. If you've run HD wrecker you know how much a roadside repair or tow call can cost you. Much better to find and fix it now.
Seriously guy, I'm not trying to rain on your parade. But I've seen way too many guys (including me) lose their shirt by rushing out there with an older questionable rig that may or may not do the job. In my case it was a "rebuilt" engine that came apart 10 months after I bought it. Didn't have the money to rebuild or replace and couldn't get it. Had to let it go back. BTW, the "dealership" patched it back together and resold it again. Met the "new owner" about a year later and told him why his truck was working so bad.
This Pete may very well be a good deal for you eventually. Just slow down and go at it careful. Best of luck to you guy.Mr. PlumCrazy, grimesjm1, Logan76 and 2 others Thank this.
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 1 of 4