‘87 Pete 379. The charge air cooler has a crack on the passenger side, upper front side corner and the top bracket, that attaches it to the front of the radiator is broken. Im pretty sure all 3 of these can be tig welded and repaired. It was very easy to remove, so not a big job. After I repair the crack, I’ll air test it to look for other leaks. What psi should I charge it to? Another thing, are the charge air coolers specific to truck model or engine model? This truck is a very early ‘87 379 and was told(by Peterbilt) the radiator in my truck is a 359 radiator.
1987 Peterbilt 379 arge air cooler repair
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by mile marker 27, Aug 30, 2022.
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This crack is literally 3” long and 1/4” wide at the top 1”. I really don’t see how it ran like it did.
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
I've always pressure tested at 30 psi and let it sit for like 10 minutes and see if it drops at all. The thought of the plug shooting out at a higher psi always scared me. Charge air cooler should be chassis side, so truck model.
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Rideandrepair, God prefers Diesels, mile marker 27 and 1 other person Thank this.
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I tig welded this morning, installed it and runs better in a pull.
Rideandrepair, W923 and lester Thank this. -
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This truck has really came alive. Seems to get a little better fuel mileage and smokes less. Gonna try and run the OH tonight, with the numbers Wore Out gave me.
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What I don’t understand, is why this truck doesn’t have a boost gauge? It has a manifold pressure gauge but it stays very low. That gauge my not be working correctly?? I’d rather have a boost gauge. What’s the difference in the two?
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