12.7 Series 60- Issues after rebuild

Simple test strips. Small kits are cheap. Cheaper for a larger kit, not worth buying though. The strips will go bad before using them. Ask the oil tech if you’re having it changed to check it, and give you a couple extra strips. You just dip them in the coolant, and check the color of the strips against the chart. They look just like diabetes test strips.

 

If a Freightliner or Detroit shop did the rebuild, I've heard that engines were being fitted with mixed parts from different 12.7 models. It will run, but not as perfect as it should. It's as if it is a way to get rid of excess inventory or just get jobs done more quickly instead of waiting for original parts that were in the engine when brand new.. i am having a 12.7 rebuilt as I type, and Detroit parts are on backorder. I will wait a little while, but might move on to aftermarket if too long.

 

Yep. Its the same principal as an oil analysis, just take a sample of coolant and send it in. More detailed than just checking PH levels with strips.
Cat SOS Fluid Analysis | 3 Types of Fluid Analysis | Fabick Cat

 

I still run the green in my old truck. I have seen a little trouble on switching even after an in frame that gets it all out. Anyway I run a coolant filter with a conditioner in it, and use test strips at every oil change. You just dip the strip in and match the color it turns to up on side of the bottle then follow instructions from there. Add conditioner or continue to run etc. I have seen liners pit in less than 100k after an overhaul from using tap water and no conditioner. Tore blocks down that were eat plum up from it too. CATS used to be terrible for a little grit getting behind the mechanical seal on the impeller causing a water pump leak so a filter doesn’t hurt. It’s been years ago but after an overhaul I done I put a filter on one for the customer. Oil cooler was stopped up on the water side, he was in a struggle and said if he made it he would bring it back for the oil cooler. Anyway bout 3 months later he shows back up for the oil cooler, I strip it down and that dude looks perfect. All that rust and stop leak was gone. So we put it back together. Now I realize I could have tried cleaning it out when I done the over haul. However when they are that bad you really can’t tell if their solid or thin, and sometimes your better off leaving them be as bad as that sounds. Anyway made a believer outta me on running a coolant filter whether they say it needs it or not

 

They have the need release filters. 4 or 5 layers with thin sacrificial metal between each layer. Good as extra insurance, just in case.

 

How’s it running? Fix motor mounts yet? The noise? Mine got so loud, I figured something must be wrong. During pre trip, I noticed the elbow split wide open, near the turbo flange, half way around, must have been leaking for a while, finally blew out. I ran 1200 miles. Bought a new one this morning, $167. Little Independent Freightliner/Isuzu Dealer in Ocala. I got lucky, they even had the wiper pivot arm for passenger side. Replaced wiper motor last week, and noticed the passenger pivot arm was bad. It’s been going bad for a few years. Now it’s totally shot. Makes the arm rub on the cowl a bit, subjecting the motor to extra wear, and possibly jamming the linkage. Local Fyda Dealer only had the “kit” in stock that includes the small square bracket it bolts to. Pivot arm only on 8 week back order. The kit costs $180. Pivot arm, only $30. Crazy that a 4”x6” piece of plate steel bracket adds an extra $150 to the cost. It’s a non wear item. No need to change it.

 

If they can't fix it, take it to someone who can that will document everything legal-like so you can backcharge and sue the original scumbags.